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Finally got to drive my Healey today!

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pkmh

pkmh

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A happy note to me!

My 1967 Healey BJ8 finally got a little taste of acting alive today.

After rebleeding the brakes and the clutch (after installing the new clutch slave cylinder and flexible line yesterday), and then recharging the battery, it started up and out of the garage it went and up and down the driveway (only).

The last time that car moved was when I purchased it back in October.

Since that time, I replaced or rebuilt all brakes and their flexible lines, both master cylinders, brake reservoir, made a couple of new brake lines, rebuilt the generator, fan belt, radiator leak, rebuilt the SU's, some detailing rebuilt hand brake, seat sliding hardware, detailing interior and engine components.

Now to learn what real problems await me besides the many I already know, or not!
 
:driving: This is the number I have on speed dial in my cell phone which is always with me and charged. 1-800-Hagerty. In 8 years I've only used it once but it sure was worth it!

Just a thought.
 
Great suggestion from judow. I would highly recommend that you get the all inclusive towing package from your insurance carrier as it sure gives you peace of mind when you are starting to drive further and further away from the ol' home garage. I have Hagerty as well and their package that will get my Healey picked up within 150 miles of home and trucked back to the house or of course the typical stuff that maybe can get you going again. Think it is called Hargerty Plus and you can purchase a lesser range for less money. Would guess that some of the other classic car insurers have something similar. Sure did make me feel better on those first shake down drives ! Sounds like you have made a lot of progress !
Regards,
Mike
 
True, I also have AAA PLUS service covering me up to one hundred miles radius from home. I also have Hagerty and I understand they are also good for directing you information on seeking parts (and maybe services) for your car. I haven't investigated that, yet.

My next adventure will be to drive it along the local boulevard.

But first is to replace the transmission oil (and O/D oil). From what I've read here, it seems to be the consensus to use 20W60 TR1 Racing oil.

Funny, so far, I have tried one local place and they do not carry it. They only said that, "British car owners are in their own 'little' world with things like that, including nuts and bolts".

I responded to him by saying, "The same hold true for Corvettes". He didn't say anything after that. What else could I've have said?

I will continue to investigate this trans oil. Can't wait to get her on the road!

Paul
 
:savewave:
consensus to use 20W60 TR1 Racing oil.

Paul!!!

Change that to" Valvoline 60W VRI and you will be successful.---Keoke
 
Okay Keoke, Valvoline 60W VRI it is.

Any clue where one would go to purchase this type? So far, I've been to two auto places and non are stocked.

I will keep investigating. Any clue as to what place carries this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Paul
 
Whats wrong with good old Castrol 20/50?

That will work perfectly well especially considering the amount and style of driving that is actually done in classic cars.
 
I got my 60w VR1 at NAPA. Congrats on all your progress. I'm waiting on the new rubber for the clutch master and slave and brake master. Hope to be back on the road by the end of the week.
 
Yep Donny, All those things I did. The Brake Master was a big headache for me for the fluid line going in was not creating an air tight seal.

Sooo, what I did (and I don't know how everyone else feels about this approach of mine) is I coiled thin copper wire a few times around the existing male doubled flared end, eliminating all play upon tightening. Well it worked for me. No more leaks.

Yes, of course it would be better to make a new doubled flared connection, in my case. I suggest that if possible and some day, I will have to go back and do that for the lock nut is heavily scarred now.
 
pkmh, I'm hoping that this project goes smooth for a change. All my woes started with changing the brakelight switch and has led to about a dozen projects. They all did need to be done and I'm glad I was forced into them while my baby was in the garage on stands and not on the side of the road. Now I'm just chomping at the bit to drive her. Funny thing is, I still don't know if the brakelights are working because they're hooked to the hydrolicks. So keeping fingers crossed that the switch works after the master is rebuilt. LOL :laugh:
 
Ah yes, electrical woes. My biggest weakness. I have one of those cut off switches in the trunk which doesn't work, yet. I hope to understand what's going on with that before risking taking it out on the road. Won't be able to let it out of my sight.
 
I have no idea yet if wires are connected to this shut off switch or what the deal is.

Right now, I am trying to find out how to get this Valvoline 20w60 TRI (or is it TR1) oil for the transmission. I may settle on the 20w50 TR1 and it may not be Valvoline. Growing tiring and impatient.
 
pkmh said:
I have no idea yet if wires are connected to this shut off switch or what the deal is.

Right now, I am trying to find out how to get this Valvoline 20w60 TRI (or is it TR1) oil for the transmission. I may settle on the 20w50 TR1 and it may not be Valvoline. Growing tiring and impatient.
Click to expand...

What you are looking for is Valvoline VR1 racing oil with a SAE viscosity of either 50 or 60. It's a single viscosity oil rather than a multi-viscosity oil like 20W50. Race cars don't need multi-viscosity oil.

I got my VR1 in SAE50 at Kragen/O'Reilly auto parts.

I hope this helps.
 
The cut off switch is easy to figure out, battery goes to one side of it and the other directly to earth on the chassis leg that the rear bumper fits onto. There should also be a small white wire back to the ignition coil I think from that switch.

Ian
 
IanIrving said:
The cut off switch is easy to figure out, battery goes to one side of it and the other directly to earth on the chassis leg that the rear bumper fits onto. There should also be a small white wire back to the ignition coil I think from that switch.

Ian
Click to expand...


The terminals on the cut-off switch are marked; IIRC 'B' for 'battery' and 'E' for 'earth.' The 'B' terminal should connect to the ground terminal on the battery (positive terminal on a positive-ground car).

The lead to the coil is white with black tracer.
 
Hey Pkmh,
I know everyone has been recommending redline or multi viscosity oils for your tranny. I know I have read it somewhere before that another good alternative is 30 weight NON detergent oil for the trans. The non detergent part apparently is good for Healey trans with some of the parts being less than happy with more modern detergent oils. I have already purchased the 30 wt ND and that is readily available at most all auto parts stores. Just waiting to change it out versus the 20w50 I currently am using. If someone out there thinks this is all wrong please correct me but remember a thread about it in the not to distant past. Randy, if you're reading this, what's your opinion, ole' Guru of BN6's and Bimmers ?
Regards,
Mike
 
Hey Mike,

I also heard about the use of non detergent oil for the trans.

However, after investigating a number of auto stores and seeing what is [easily] available, I decided to go for the Valvoline 20w50 TR1. One store also had an oil labeled as, "Valvoline SAE 50 TR1", but the store manager didn't know the difference (and at the moment, neither do I!).

I hope it'll be safe and sufficient to use the Valvoline 20w50 TR1 since most seem to say it's okay. Also, the 60 brand was proving just too hard for me to track down or nobody I spoke to ever heard of it.

I remember some commenting the capacity of the trans oil being at 8.25 quarts, which also includes the amount for the O.D. Do most concur on this figure?

Happy motoring!


Paul
 
Thanks Bob and Ian, for the specifics on the cut-off switch. I will make notes of this in my journal and investigate at a later time.
 
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