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danielnorton
Senior Member
Offline
Finally an up-date
Last weekend I was able to head up to Massachusetts to work on my '67 ..
First order of business was to get the rear brakes adjusted. I picked up a torch and some pb blaster to get the adjusters moving as well as the 1-7/8" socket to remove the backing plate if heat/lube failed.
I heated the adjusters red hot several times, but the fact that they had softened so much from the rust made it impossible to turn them even with a vice grip.
Got the brakes off and down to the big nut, the socket fit, but kept jumping off, I feared stripping the nut and thought that maybe the fact that the socket I had was 12 point was the issue.
Since I had borrowed the socket and had no investment, I had no problem going to sears and picking up a 6 point. Unfortunately neither sears nor any other place I could think of had a 6 point socket in that size.
When I explained the entire situation to the guy at sears, he recommend a product called bolt out.
Worked like a charm, I was able to adjust the brakes, though I still plan on getting a 6 point socket to remove the backing plates and replace the adjusters next time I have a chance.
As far as the clutch goes, with the newly adjusted brakes, I was able to do the "drive real fast in 2nd gear and slam on the brakes" trick.
no luck, fly wheel still seems to be stuck.
Since I won't be able to get up to the car for at least 6-8 weeks, I think I'm going to seek professional help on the clutch - local guy "Britannic motors" in Avon, MA can to the job for $900
Called a few other places, that seems to be the going rate up there. As much as I'd like to do it myself,I think between the 3-4 trips it will take me, parts and rental or buying of a lift, I'll only save maybe $200.
So, now I'm focusing my energy on some smaller projects..
The inside of my hubcaps are really rusted, I've had some luck with barkeeps friend, but some of the rust is really thick. I just bought a wire brush for my drill, but it seems to just be "polishing" the rust.
I only have a cheap battery operated drill. 1.2 amp 600 rpm.
What's the best option, a 6amp drill at 2500 rpm or a dremel (2 amp 5-35000 rpm) for this kind of thing.
Since it's the inside of the hubcaps, I don't care about scratching, I just want to remove the rust and maybe use some type of sealer to prevent further rust.
-Daniel
Last weekend I was able to head up to Massachusetts to work on my '67 ..
First order of business was to get the rear brakes adjusted. I picked up a torch and some pb blaster to get the adjusters moving as well as the 1-7/8" socket to remove the backing plate if heat/lube failed.
I heated the adjusters red hot several times, but the fact that they had softened so much from the rust made it impossible to turn them even with a vice grip.
Got the brakes off and down to the big nut, the socket fit, but kept jumping off, I feared stripping the nut and thought that maybe the fact that the socket I had was 12 point was the issue.
Since I had borrowed the socket and had no investment, I had no problem going to sears and picking up a 6 point. Unfortunately neither sears nor any other place I could think of had a 6 point socket in that size.
When I explained the entire situation to the guy at sears, he recommend a product called bolt out.
Worked like a charm, I was able to adjust the brakes, though I still plan on getting a 6 point socket to remove the backing plates and replace the adjusters next time I have a chance.
As far as the clutch goes, with the newly adjusted brakes, I was able to do the "drive real fast in 2nd gear and slam on the brakes" trick.
no luck, fly wheel still seems to be stuck.
Since I won't be able to get up to the car for at least 6-8 weeks, I think I'm going to seek professional help on the clutch - local guy "Britannic motors" in Avon, MA can to the job for $900
Called a few other places, that seems to be the going rate up there. As much as I'd like to do it myself,I think between the 3-4 trips it will take me, parts and rental or buying of a lift, I'll only save maybe $200.
So, now I'm focusing my energy on some smaller projects..
The inside of my hubcaps are really rusted, I've had some luck with barkeeps friend, but some of the rust is really thick. I just bought a wire brush for my drill, but it seems to just be "polishing" the rust.
I only have a cheap battery operated drill. 1.2 amp 600 rpm.
What's the best option, a 6amp drill at 2500 rpm or a dremel (2 amp 5-35000 rpm) for this kind of thing.
Since it's the inside of the hubcaps, I don't care about scratching, I just want to remove the rust and maybe use some type of sealer to prevent further rust.
-Daniel
