bobh said:
Hap,
My TR6 has around 23K miles. Can I replace the factory flywheel with an aluminum flywheel without doing anything else to the engine? Any problems with balance? Any other problems?
Also are the benefits of an aluminum flywheel noticable for regular driving?
Thanks,
BOBH
As Ron mentioned no real changes needed, it's a direct bolt on made to work with stock type clutches, but as also mentioned, it's golden time to check out your clutch wear and replace anything that looks questionable. The one tip I can give you guys as for installing a aluminum flywheel is make sure with whatever you are using for flywheel bolts that the chamfer on the flywheel bolt in the flywheels hole is big enough to clear the radius at the base of the bolt head, if not this can cause spider cracks over time, so I like to use a countsink or chamfer tool with the ARP flywheel bolts on MGB and Spridgets to increase the chamfer. Fidanza flywheels are zero balanced, so no rebalancing needed
As far as how it will drive, some will tell you they take more effort to get going from a dead start, but TR3/4/6 share a common trait with the MGB motors, theses engines are torquey, but not terribly quick reving engines, so the aluminum flywheel should wake up the acceleration rate of your engine, now that won't give a single HP increase, but it will get you to what you already have quicker. Personally I like the feel of the aluminum flywheel on street cars, it's nice "seat in the pants" change and after years of driving race cars with Tilton non sprung sinter disc clutches and 1.65 ratio first gear trannys (try getting that baby off from a dead start )

I think aluminum flywheels are nice touch to many of our cars, maybe not what I would recommend for the peaky 948cc Bugeye, but definately an improvement on a bigger, torquier, slower reving engines. I got one for my new personal big bore MGB engine.