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Fenders

dmorris1

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I am restoring my BJ8. What do you recommend after painting the back of the fenders. Do you advise coating with anti-chip coating or sound insulation
coating or just leave it with the paint.
 
Depends on how original you are going with the car. Fenders were painted underneath the same color as outside (and the tub) just not as good of quality of as the outside finish. Anti- chip with body color over would be good.

Marv
 
We always finish the insides of the panels and the inner wheel arches, everything as clean and smooth as the outsides, which makes for an easy surface to keep clean. Today's paints are easily durable enough to not be blasted off. Any rough surface will tend to allow dirt and crap to cling and be difficult to keep clean.
 
richch said:
We always finish the insides of the panels and the inner wheel arches, everything as clean and smooth as the outsides, which makes for an easy surface to keep clean. Today's paints are easily durable enough to not be blasted off. Any rough surface will tend to allow dirt and crap to cling and be difficult to keep clean.
Yes, great for appearance, but I suppose the intended use of the car should also play a factor.

My inner fenders and wheelwells were smooth painted body color, but the din of small rocks/pebbles, etc. being thrown up by the tires was deafening. I elected to coat the inner fenders/wheelwells with a chip-guard type of coating (Fusor 805 wheelhouse coating) and the rubberized surface is much quieter. It's been a few years now, and the finish is holding up well and easy enough to keep clean with just the garden hose.

Keep in mind, my car is nowhere near a concours contender, though it does show well, given the fact it's regularly driven and put to use for errands.

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Randy,
Did you prime over your first coat of paint before using the Fusor 805 or just scuff and paint it directly over your body paint? What type of sprayer did you need for the Fusor 805. It looks like it comes in a caulk gun looking dispenser.
thanks,
rich
 
Hi Rich, no additioanl primer, just scuffed up the surface with a Scotchbrite pad and wiped down with DX-330.

Yes, it's a special gun, but not prohibitively expensive. Keep it clean after each use (always a good practice anyway) and you can probably get most of your money back on it. Sometimes, you can even find a distributor willing to give you the gun if you buy a case of the product (which you could probably use if doing an entire Healey undercarriage and wheelwells/inner fenders).

I use it on every BMW I work on, and the product is very consistant. By varying the air content, you can lay out a "bead" of material on a seam, or spray a very light texture (like exposed chip-guard on rocker panels) and anything in between.

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I have a thin coating of fiberglass on the back side where rust is a common problem (the lower foot or so). I laid the fiberglass on the bare metal and then had it painted over.
 
Legal Bill said:
Randy,

Something tells me your hub nut isn't tight.
COvering my bases. Since 99% of the cars I work on are shipped to me, any sort of "comeback" is unacceptable; I cannot let anything slip by. Whenever I have to do a task with a portion unfinished, I leave myself a reminder that can't be missed (tape across the driver's door opening is also popular around here). I used to use a China-Marker, and write notes on the windshield__in front of the driver__couldn't miss it, but removing and throwing away the tape was easier than cleaning the glass :wink:

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Those rear hub nuts again...
 
John Turney mentioned he applied a layer of fiberglass in the interior sides of the fenders to protect them from future rust. Anyone have any long term experience with this method or have any other proven suggestions of way to stave off rust? Would something like POR15 be of any benefit?

Randy, Did you add the chip guard to quiet the noise only or do you think it will act as a rust preventer also?
 
I put it on to quiet the noise, but by its very nature of dampening the racket via a rubberized coating, it prevents thrown up stones from chipping the paint and exposing bare metal.
 
Rob,

Uncoated Fiberglass does not prevent moisture (water) to reach the metal underneath. With Fiberglass boats its called osmosis. When bent it will crack and speed up the osmosis proces.
 
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