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fender spear

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Digger

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I am getting ready to send some parts out for chroming, and I noticed that one of the studs on a fender spear is broken, so I am asking for some opinions. Is there a way to repair this? Will the other two studs be sufficient to hold it tight? Or should I go ahead and order a new one?
 

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Trying to install the spears with the wings on the car is a PITA . Forget the nuts , get some 3M double sided body moulding tape and stick them on . Job done .
 
You likely can weld (mig or tig) the stud back on on, after careful grinding of both the mounting area on the spear and the stud to get down to bare metal. Welding will almost certainly discolor the spear, but if you are having it re-chromed that may not be an issue. Too much heat will distort the spear.

Although there is not a lot of space to work in, if you choose to use the studs and nuts, it's a lot easier to install the spears when working from underneath the car than through the engine compartment.
 
Although I haven't repaired such a broken stud, I believe it is possible if you have the equipment and the skills. The best way would be to find a screw with the same thread (just guessing, but it's probably something like 10-32), cut off the head and use the threaded portion to make a new stud. Dress the broken stub off flat, then braze the new stud to the stub. My only concern here would be whether the heat would affect the metal of the spear.
An alternative would be to solder the new stud to the stub with a propane torch. It wouldn't be as strong, of course.

If there are three studs on the spear, then two of them would be adequate to secure it to the fender. The easiest way to access the nuts on the studs behind the fender is to remove the fasteners from the bottom edge of the fender and pull it out at the bottom. I haven't checked on the price or quality of the available replacements, so all of this work may or may not be worth it to you.
 
Steve Byers:

Don't grind off the head just grind it down thin:encouragement:
 
Hi. I recently bought a replacement bonnet grill to replace the wrong later type that was on my 100/6. The quality of the pressing and chrome was so poor I sent it back . The replacement arrived a better centered pressing but awful burrs and chrome . I de burred it and sent it for stripping polishing and triple plate together with the original spears. Waiting now for their return and the bill !

Andy
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll try the 3M tape, before I try to solder/braze/weld a new stud.
 
Hi Digger,

I would first contact the selected Chromer for suggestions as his process may undermine the approaches suggested with the application of acids and heat. If you want to follow one of the suggestions provided (here), I would consider their application after the re-chroming but I would select an approach with very low or no heat to eliminate the risk of heat discoloration.

I do agree with the Healey-Nut that fitting the spears on installed fender is a PITA and I also talk from experience. However, I feel the spears should be applied on painted fenders and many have had their fenders installed on the car for painting. If the fenders are already mounted and painted, I would consider, proceeding with care, but dismount them for spear installation.

Just, some thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Silver Solder, Silver Solder new stud with a ground down thin head to strengthen it-:highly_amused:

Tape prolly work good TOO---:encouragement:

Reinstalling fender spears on installed fenders just requires long arms & Patience.:applause:
 
Digger said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll try the 3M tape, before I try to solder/braze/weld a new stud.
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Depending how thick your tape is you may have to use two layers as the spear is recessed . you just need the tape to be very slightly proud of the edge of the spear . If you have evertried to remove body mouldings that are stuck on you will realize how good the stuff is and the are not coming off easily anytime soon .
 
Why rechrome a broken part, and then stick it to the car with tape? A new part costs $34.00.
 
Keoke said:
Steve Byers:

Don't grind off the head just grind it down thin:encouragement:
Click to expand...

If you're going to solder the new stud to the spear, that might be O.K. But if you're going to braze it, you wouldn't want that kind of heat too near the spear itself. My thought was not to grind the stub down flat to the spear surface, but just to provide a flat surface on the broken part of the stub to support the new part.
 
CLEAH said:
Why rechrome a broken part, and then stick it to the car with tape? A new part costs $34.00.
Click to expand...

Because that new 34$ part is a piece of chrome tin foil from some far east repro company that looks like crap . If he tapes them on the only person that will know is the owner if its done correctly .

its the same as the" you know who bumpers ". Yep they are cheap , theres a reason for that ...thats why I chose to bite the bullet and spend the $$ having my originals straightened and rechromed ,cost me three times as much but they are the strong weighty originals not some coke can barely coated with chrome repro china/india junk .
 
Healey Nut said:
Because that new 34$ part is a piece of chrome tin foil from some far east repro company that looks like crap . If he tapes them on the only person that will know is the owner if its done correctly .

its the same as the" you know who bumpers ". Yep they are cheap , theres a reason for that ...thats why I chose to bite the bullet and spend the $$ having my originals straightened and rechromed ,cost me three times as much but they are the strong weighty originals not some coke can barely coated with chrome repro china/india junk .
Click to expand...

I think this is a good rule to go by. If you can restore an original part, it's going to be better quality than a modern replacement part. I'd save a new replacement for something that was truly "unobtanium". Otherwise, I'd find an original and restore it.
 
HealeyRick said:
I think this is a good rule to go by. If you can restore an original part, it's going to be better quality than a modern replacement part. I'd save a new replacement for something that was truly "unobtanium". Otherwise, I'd find an original and restore it.
Click to expand...

If you look up the word "restoration" it means taking something old broken and worn out and refinising ,repairing ,rebuiling it to the condition it was when it was new , or better than new .
If all you are going to do for your "so called restoration" is pick up a catalogue and order all new repro parts on line and assemble them then thats a meccano set (erector set for the US folks) not restoration in my opinion .
 
All correct. Sticking the piece on with tape is not restoration. If you are going to do it, do it right. Either repair it (DIY or professionally) and then re chrome it, which is the definition of restoration, or get a new part if it can't be repaired (which is done all the time when parts can't be restored).
 
Ask your Chromer for advice or even to attach a new stud.

A good Chroming works usually has the ability to repair metal and/or applying missing or broken stud as part of their services. I suggest you contact them for advice as they will know what is the best approach, even if you decide to do it yourself. You are going through the expense of re-chroming an old part and I suspect you would like it to look better then original and be fully functional.

Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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