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Favorite oils/lubricants

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richberman

richberman

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I was wondering if anyone had a list of their favorite oils/lubricants for Healeys..
I see Randy likes Red Line 80W140 for steering boxes, but how about manual transmissions (w/OD), rear diffs, brake fluid, clutch fluids, shock fluid, greases and other lubricants.
This my be helpful to have one list in one place...
thanks to all for contributing.
rich
:thankyousign:
 
Hi Rich -

I'm new to this forum & to Big Healeys but happen to be researching oil for the gearbox/OD unit in my 1960 BT7. Hope to test it out after fixing wiring & corroded switches etc. I found this link hopefully other members will offer advice too, good luck.

Jeff S.
Link to Chris Dimmock's Healey page
 
For engine oil, it's Castrol ALL THE WAY!

I first started using Castrol in my 73 MGB (bought new) because the mechanic that worked on it for me used Castrol in his E/P MGB racecar.

I've had plenty of opportunity to be inside of engines that received a steady diet of Castrol oil (and regular service intervals) and can state that they remain as clean inside as when I had put them together__ZERO SLUDGE BUILDUP!

It doesn't hurt my feelings that Castrol is the oil recommended by BMW, and is absolutely the ONLY oil to be used in ///M (Motorsports Division) S-54 & S-62 engines (perhaps the V-10 & newest M3 V-8 too, but I haven't worked on any to know for certain). These ///M engines require 10w/60 Castrol TMS, only imported through BMW dealers.

I also use the Red Line in Healey differentials. While 75w/90 would do, I always have the 125w/140 in stock for the BMW LSD differentials.

I usually use Castrol engine oil in the gearbox, straight 40 (10w/50 GTX in the crankcase).
 
richberman said:
125w140 or 80w140 in Healey differentials? And which wheel bearing grease?
rich
Click to expand...
Yeah, I have this <span style="font-style: italic">thing</span> about numbers, or am I just too lazy to go out in the garage to look?

:wink:
 
richberman said:
125w140 or 80w140 in Healey differentials? And which wheel bearing grease?

Just about any product labeled NLGi Grade-2---Keoke


rich
Click to expand...
 
In response to which oils to use, First i would suggest if you do not know the history of your vintage car, Before you drive it, Pull the oil pan off and inspect it for sludge build up, It can tell you alot about its past as far as long storage and past maintance of your car. Why put fresh oil into a sludge filled oil pan and have the whole mess running through your motor! I have used castrol 20w 50 in all my british cars in the last 20 years with very good results. castrol hypoy C 80w90 gear lube in the rear end, I used to use sae 40 straight weight in my gearbox/overdrive but have switched to castrol 20w 50 as recommended in the bentely manual, So far is working fine.I have rebuilt my whole brake system and am trying Gunk dot 5 all silicone brake fluid for the first time because it does not absorb water and made sense to me because i store my healey in the winter and i was tired of standard brake fluid eating my paint! So far after 300 miles i really like it! But time will tell! I understand it may go off the market in the future but im sure i can find a source for it someplace such as harley davidson or else where! As of now im glad i switched! As for coolent! I stay with the green stuff! Such as prestone 50/50 mix or buy the green prestone you can mix yourself if you wish. I understand the red coolent turns to a gell after a while so i stay with the green stuff! I use straight 30 wt in all four shocks with good results for highway use. When it comes to the dash pot oil i use S U dash pot oil with good results as well. As far as grease, I use castrol wheelbearing grease and also use castrol to grease the ball joints! I hope this helps! Michael.
 
I too have used Castrol 20w-50 in all my LBC's since 1976, don't remember who or why but it hasn't let me down. I've read several articles and threads about different oils but I'll keep doing what I'm doing until someone shows me something better.

Marv
 
After getting the electrical issues resolved with the OD on my 1960 BT7 (Dash toggle was only issue - corroded internally) I decided to change the oil on the Tranny/OD unit prior to 1st OD road test. This vehicle had sat untouched apparently for 30-35 years in a garage or barn prior to purchasing it last month. I had brought the oil level up in the tranny from 1/4" below the min. mark to just above by adding Hypoid gear oil (whoops) prior to getting the engine running. But when I pulled the plug out NO oil flowed.. I then removed the Brass plug on the OD & got some oil flow. Needed to poke the 1st hole with wire to break thru a crusty oil layer, then the old oil poured out. It was milky pea soup colored don't know if that is normal for the aerated oil? Anyway the stuff coming out of the OD end also had some darker thick oil. I cleaned the strainer re-assembled & put in 3.5 qts 20w-50. I had adjusted the throttle switch to open when a 3/16" rod would pass between the stop screw & stop lever as per the AH 3000 shop manual. After warm-up I took the car out & tried the OD, but nothing is happening in the unit, though the solenoid is moving the shaft some. I've found several good write ups on the next steps, checking adjustment of the solenoid, operating valve etc. Below I will post the link to what I have found to be the most informative (regarding the OD hydraulics), If anyone has any other advice or links to advice I would appreciate it. One question I have is what to do about the sludge in the tranny, if anything. Has anyone used the product Seafoam in their fuel systems, engines, or trannys? I've had good luck in old atv engines, cleaning carbs etc, & have so far run it in the tank of the Healey. Just wondering what people think, would loosening up the sludge do more harm than good at this point trying to revive the old OD unit? Should I just go & pull apart & inspect the operating valve 1st to look for blockage? Thanks,

Jeff S.
Overdrive Hydraulics Link
 
Just a quick addition to my last post, I have since checked the lift on the operating valve ball. The solenoid lifts it about .052" which is just over the 3/64" suggested in the write up from the Link of my previous post. Should I leave it or set it between the 1/32"-3/64"??? The spring, plunger & ball were very clean, no sludge in this area https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/images/icons/default/thumbs_up.gif Looks like I need to rig up a pressure gauge at this point?
 
HealeyCopter said:
Just a quick addition to my last post, I have since checked the lift on the operating valve ball. The solenoid lifts it about .052" which is just over the 3/64" suggested in the write up from the Link of my previous post. Should I leave it or set it between the 1/32"-3/64"??? The spring, plunger & ball were very clean, no sludge in this area https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/images/icons/default/thumbs_up.gif Looks like I need to rig up a pressure gauge at this point?
Click to expand...
During a test drive with the trans cover off, does the overdrive function if you manual/physically push down the operating lever on the RH side of the overdrive?
 
If I read it correctly, he did that at first, then tried to drain it out, then added 20W-50. I wonder if that gummed up the hydraulics? Not saying it did, but I don't know.
 
Randy,John - What I meant was I put in some gear oil (maybe a pint) by mistake before getting my service manual. Then I worked on getting the troubleshooting wiring & getting the engine running, then some short drives to see if the tranny, rear axle etc were good.

I did not try to engage the overdrive manually with the lever on the right side, I only tried it with the toggle on the dash. The oil did drain out completely, but it was interesting that I had to open the drain hole up with a wire, never seen that before. So I should take the car out tomorrow & try moving the lever by hand?, thanks will give it a try.

Jeff S.
 
Yes, if you can make the overdrive operate by hand, then your problem lies with the controls and/or adjustment.

If it doesn't work by forcing it, then you're probably looking at getting inside the overdrive to clean it out/find out why.

During the test, don't exceed a comfotable RPM when holding it in overdrive mode, as the speed builds, so does the pressure required to hold it in. You don't want to over-rev the engine when you can no longer hold the lever down.
 
Thanks for the tips. Weather was not good for a road test today, & it's not looking promising anytime soon with winter on the horizon... So I'll be getting the car up on jack stands to continue testing. However I did set up a pressure gauge & did a driveway run. I by-passed the gear switch with a remote hand switch (normally off - thumb actuated to avoid a reverse gear disaster). ZERO hydraulic pressure is showing up at all with a <span style="text-decoration: underline">1st gear</span> run at 2500-3000 rpm. I also tried the operating lever on the RH side of the overdrive as suggested still no pressure. Once up on jack stands I will see if there is any hydraulic pressure in 4th gear & look for problems with the non-return valve & pump.

Jeff S.
 
John - you are right it isn't meant to work in the lower gears, the gear switch prevents this. But if the gear switch is bypassed the OD will engage in the lower gears, NOT something one should normally do however.
 
John Turney said:
O/D isn't suppose to work in 1st gear. It only works in 3rd/4th.
Click to expand...
True, and I wonder if the reduced output shaft RPM is contributing to the low/no pressure from the pump.

I'd (safely) get the rear wheels off the ground, and do some stationary tests running in 4th gear.
 
Yeah I'm a bit nervous about running up the drivetrain in 4th gear on jackstands, but will take precautions & probably take the rear wheels off.....
 
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