TR2/3/3A Fast Road TR3a on figure of 8 sprint track - UK

[Hamish Racing]

Hi folks
I had my first competition this year in my road going TR3a of 1959. First time racing with my hardtop that I have refurbished. Its 117bhp so nothing extreme. It’s the sticky low profile tyres that make it fast here. It still has the steering box and standard brakes. It’s a sprint so one car on track at a time so less scary than the fig of 8 would suggest.
it’s at a place called Curborough.
I had a miss fire during the first run that cleared itself.
so stick with the video as I get my personal best time down from 73.65 to 71.64s and beating the championship handicap time for my class of 73.00
I surprised my self
I hope you enjoy.

 

[karls59tr]

That was great. Congrats on your time.

 

[Frank Canale]

Great job, 117 HP may not be extreme but sure does sound a little rowdy.looks like a lot of fun, looking forward to more videos Frank

 

[karls59tr]

What kind of exhaust set up are you using for that amazing sound?

 

[Hamish Racing]

Hi
Thanks guys
This is the sort of exhausts system
But it’s a Phoenix system.

Phoenix Manifold & Big Bore System - TR Shop Ltd

Phoenix manifold & big bore exhaust system TR2-4 High port cylinder head cars only, for low port cars please contact us. Suitable with hi torque and ‘long type’ starter motors This manifold is not compatible with the ‘bomb type’ starter motor (fitted on early models). If you have the bomb...

www.trshop.co.uk

Race scrutineering sound check on Sunday was 101dB @ .5meter at 45 degree angle.

 

[mrv8q]

That was fun! How deep are you diving in the redline? Looks like the tach is bouncing around quite a bit!
Love that rorty exhaust sound!

 

[Hamish Racing]

I have a very old sports cam mid 1970’s from when Neil revington first started Revington TR here in the uk. Coupled with the big bore exhaust manifold and carb inlets I have the torque 133ft/lb at 3800 but the power 117bhp (flywheel) is at 5400. So a big gap between the too and the max power too high up the Rev range. In these tight twisty sprints I take it over 5.5k but as you have seen it’s very short time at that level the whole run is 74 to 71 seconds. I wouldn’t like to sustain those high revs for example circuit racing with long high speed straights.
all of my fine tuning has been on the suspension characteristics. And despite “wearing” the hardtop and the extra weight it seems to be working.
this is the car on the day and the engine bay if you are interested. The bright red plug leads are not my style but we’re spares and help fix the miss fire

 

[karls59tr]

Nice pictures of the motor. I have the TR4A intake manifold and air funnel to the carbs similar to your set up for better breathing. Interesting fuel line routing.....was that to keep the line away from engine heat? Is that 280 degree camshaft and do you remember the specs for it? What would your valve lash be? Have you done any cooling upgrades?

 

[Hamish Racing]

Nice pictures of the motor. I have the TR4A intake manifold and air funnel to the carbs similar to your set up for better breathing. Interesting fuel line routing.....was that to keep the line away from engine heat? Is that 280 degree camshaft and do you remember the specs for it? What would your valve lash be? Have you done any cooling upgrades?

hi Karl
i had mechanical fuel pump issues a couple years a go and fitted the HUCO elec fuel pump and inertia cut out that you can see as part of that it seemed sensible to route the fuel line round the back as you say to keep the fuel cooler and its less of a run and only needed to swap over the float bowl tops on the carbs.
the cold air feed is easy and cheap but i have also got bonnet louvres to get the heat out.
i am afraid i donuts know the spec of the cam as i say its a very old one and i haven't bothered to measure the lift or duration. the rocker gap is 14thou.
87mm pistons- tuftrided crank - tr4a head.
only cooling upgrades is a clean block especially at the back and around the block drain and an elec fan with a thermostat and manual override its the switch and little yellow LED by the glove box. i have an enclosed system so a non pressure (spring) cap on the rad with a pipe from the rad overflow to an expansion tank with the spring cap its a brass tank off an MG i think. its a no loss system like a modern car.
H

 

[karls59tr]

Hello H I have also lost the cam specs on my Mild street cam. I think the valve gap was left at .010 when the head was installed so I am going to open up the lash to .014 as some others have suggested. There would not be a down side to doing that would there? What rpm does your car idle at? I also have an electric fan that I have on occasion left on so I like the idea of the LED light.
Just curious have you ever had to rebuild the starter? Thanks for the info
K

 

[Hamish Racing]

As to gap it might sound a bit rattling and if so knock it back to 12thou?
my idle is around 1000
800 is ok but can die a little if you come to a stop on a road junction and you have to get active with the heel and toe on throttle and brake.
I have changed my starter to a hi-torque version.
check out my other videos as there are a couple walking round and an on road driving one.
but happy to answer any questions I know the answer too. But I don’t pretend to be an expert !!