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Fan Blade

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go_inbroke

go_inbroke

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I noticed that my fan belt had started to de-laminate and after I got it off I found that the fan blade (stock) was loose on the crank I attempted to tighten it. The nut keeper is in place so I can't get a wrench on the four bolts that hold. Before I start to take the front of the car off and pull the radiator to get to the front of the fan, is the blade supposed to be loose? (That sound like a stupid question.) Info please!
 
Always helps to mention which car you are working on, as they aren't all the same
grin.gif


Assuming this is a stock TR3A fan; no, it shouldn't be loose. But there are some rubber bushings that the fan mounts on, which are famous for "going away". It's not clear if the factory intended it that way or not, but it turns out that those bushings act as vibration dampers that actually reduce stress in the crank.

Bushings are available from TRF, P/N 108496, 8 required. No doubt other suppliers have them too. Likely you'll want the sleeves that go inside them too, P/N 108499, 4 required.

Good luck with pulling the apron. That's the part I hate!
 
Thanks for the info, sorry about omitting TR3A. It looks like it will be a fall/winter project to pull the apron. Appears like $20.00 in parts and 20 hours in labor. I know that as I go I will run into other problems that will need to be addressed. I don't know how long it has been like this. I hope it hasn't damaged the fan.
 
20 hours labor? That could be on the low side, hopefully not. If you start breaking cage nuts it could be a lot more.
Use anti seize when reassembling.
 
If your bolts come off easily it's not that big a deal. Mark all of the wires you disconnect from the headlights/indicators etc.
A good time to do 'other' stuff once it's off. Water pump, radiator, steering box, front motor mounts etc.
I replaced my stock fan with a TR6 plastic model (inverted) and it works much better than the stock fan at moving air but you still need the rubber mounting kit.
I believe it took me about an hour to get the front off last time.
Oh yea, put some masking tape down each fender wing so the aluminum beading retaining tabs won't scratch the paint once swung out of the way (I never remove the beading).
 
The car was painted about 12 years ago, so it was apart then. Good idea about the anti seize. I use plastic bread holders(marked) to clip onto the wires as I disassemble, this usually keeps the electrical in line.
all info is good info. This will be the first time I will take the apron off so...
 
Aprons come off easily enough. But putting it back on is a labor of love. I fussed with getting everything aligned just right and it seems like it was not the same parts that I just took off. That's the hardest part IMO.

Good winter project as, once it's apart, you'll find more stiff to do. Great time to replace the timing chain and tensioner as well.
 
The car only has 51K on her. I'm going to try not to have to do too much. I thought about timing chain and tensioner, as well as water pump, steering box, but "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is going to apply until 2 college and 1 dental school are done. I still have to weigh parts against books. I might put 500 miles per year on the car so I have time.
Good advice on the taping off the parts. Scratches suck...
 
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