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TR2/3/3A Fabricating inner sills?

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wifegonnakillme

Jedi Hopeful
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I'm in the middle of looking at inner sills for my '56 and after looking costs tied to shipping and exchange rates here in Canada, it struck me that these are pretty simple parts... has anyone tried fabricating?

I realize the length and maybe gauge is too much for most home shops, including mine, but if one could have the simple bends done commercially for each half and reuse the bracket for the floor, it might be worth it(?)

Cost delivered for 2 inner and 2 outer sills is around $700CAD...

Thanks,
Kerry
 
My TRF inner sills (bought about 6 years ago, dunno about quality now) were so poor a fit I junked them. I used 1x3 rectangular tube (fabbed from 1x1 and 1x2). Front and rear angles and length were taken off from the assembled tub. Mounting ears were fabbed and mounted using dimensions taken off originals. Wasn't too hard. By assembled tub, I mounted the front and rear halves on the frame temporarily to do the measurements.
Bob
 
About two years ago TRF started producing their own sills. That would be as opposed to the older units that were a poor fit. Last year I used two of the newer sills. I found them to be good quality with a good fit. I would recommend them.
I had used a sill about 10 years ago and also had fitment problems with it. I do not remember who I bought that sill from.
Charley
 
Thanks Folks,

I already had a note into rimmer, it will be the shipping that decides it, might be the best option - the US exchange at the moment is not favorable for Canadian destinations.

At the same time though, I will look into finding a local fabricator, might be fun to try and maybe cost effective, if I fab, I will post pics,

Cheers,
Kerry
 
I removed one of the aftermarket sills, fortunately before it was all welded up, and replaced it with one of the newer TRF sills because the fit was so bad on the first one. The fit on the new expensive TRF sill was better but still no perfect. I don't know why these things have been so troublesome. I don't know about Rimmer's sills, perhaps they are better.
I agree also that they could be made quite easily in a decent shop. However, I've not found the shops to be very enthusiastic about helping with DIY projects and expensive if you can get them to do it. Perhaps better luck in Calgary.
Tom
 
Tom,
The misfit of the new TRF sills I used I believe was primarily due to the abuse my car body has had over the years. I had to repair damage to the body and frame from a left front impact and roll over. The earlier sills that I used and were not a good fit. In particular they were off on the height of the floor attachment brace. I found the new TRF sills to be good there plus the notching for the A and B post attachment areas was very helpful. One problem I had was the front lip attachment to the firewall. This was very easily worked around.
Charley
 
I think I am headed there. KAS came back $100 (CAD) cheaper than the UK, but still $600 for inner sills and rocker.

Am waiting to hear back from a couple of shops that have brakes long enough to bend the steel, failing that I may take Bob's approach of stacking tubular steel...

Thanks,
Kerry
 
charleyf said:
Tom,
The misfit of the new TRF sills I used I believe was primarily due to the abuse my car body has had over the years. I had to repair damage to the body and frame from a left front impact and roll over. The earlier sills that I used and were not a good fit. In particular they were off on the height of the floor attachment brace. I found the new TRF sills to be good there plus the notching for the A and B post attachment areas was very helpful. One problem I had was the front lip attachment to the firewall. This was very easily worked around.
Charley
Click to expand...
Another issue I had was that the box section made by welding the two halves together was nearly 1/4 inch wider than original. Something to keep in mind when fabricating, if you go that route.
Tom
 
Hi Tom,
I was actually thinking last night that if I could get the metal bent for a decent price, I could use the "savings" to go pick up a $250 spot welder - never used one before, but was thinking that could help control the overall thickness.

Kerry
 
wifegonnakillme said:
Hi Tom,
I was actually thinking last night that if I could get the metal bent for a decent price, I could use the "savings" to go pick up a $250 spot welder - never used one before, but was thinking that could help control the overall thickness.

Kerry
Click to expand...

Yes, the spot welder will make a nearly perfect job of welding things together. I was never much of a plug weld fan, although I use them wherever I can't get to both sides or can't fit the welder in. I got an old ARO welder on eBay many years ago. It's 220 and quite powerful. Timer doesn't work but I can live with that. I made a bunch of tongs, the longest 18 inches, from copper rod, also from eBay.
Tom
Edit:
Of course you could always mig weld them and you might have to mig the floors, outer sills and all to the inners anyway.
 
Last edited:
Another consideration if you want perfect alignment of front and rear guards/fenders and doors to the outer sills.....temp fit the fenders and doors before you do the final weld in of the outer sills.
You may also have to modify the outer sill where the fenders/sill overlap.
 
I have followed this thread...waiting to see where it goes. I am always a "do it myself" kinda guy, but the inner sill is a very critical part. It essentially ties all parts of the body to the frame, and it has at least a dozen interfaces that can go wrong. I have no doubt it can be done home made. Just make sure you understand what every bend and seam relates too on the body. None of them can be "TLAR'd"!
 
I (finally) heard back from one of the fabrication shops - 20-30$ for steel, $150 for labor to fold and another $150 if I want them to weld it.

I was, since I love tools, planning on buying a princess auto (our harbor freight) spot welder for $250, but its capacity is a combined thickness of 1/8 inch; if I go with 12 gauge, that's 7/64 per side - almost twice as thick as it can handle. Sooo, I am going to poke around for a little while to see if I can find a heavy duty spot welder - more to come...

As a side note, my car is missing the rear support brackets (looks like they were cut away) and on closer inspection of the front ones, they are pretty rough, so I will make these at home too.

Cheers,
Kerry


Edit - after looking around, I am not optimistic I can find a powerful enough spot welder - posted a wanted ad here in Calgary, but the larger units seem few and far between or are huge $$ industrial units...
 
wifegonnakillme said:
I (finally) heard back from one of the fabrication shops - 20-30$ for steel, $150 for labor to fold and another $150 if I want them to weld it.

I was, since I love tools, planning on buying a princess auto (our harbor freight) spot welder for $250, but its capacity is a combined thickness of 1/8 inch; if I go with 12 gauge, that's 7/64 per side - almost twice as thick as it can handle. Sooo, I am going to poke around for a little while to see if I can find a heavy duty spot welder - more to come...

As a side note, my car is missing the rear support brackets (looks like they were cut away) and on closer inspection of the front ones, they are pretty rough, so I will make these at home too.

Cheers,
Kerry


Edit - after looking around, I am not optimistic I can find a powerful enough spot welder - posted a wanted ad here in Calgary, but the larger units seem few and far between or are huge $$ industrial units...
Click to expand...

I'm quite sure the originals were made from 18 gage and the replacement from the same. How did you arrive at 12 gage? If you make thym from 18 the 220 spot welders should do the trick.
Tom
 
I probably have a cross section of the sill out in the garage if someone wants me to check the thickness...just let me know and I'll dig it out. I'm going to guess 16 guage.

Cheers,
Tush
 
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