Capt Randy, I understand your point and I must admit that I sprayed the Lizard Skin while I was restoring the car and it was relatively disassembled. But, when you think about how this is applied you might agree with me that the car does not have to be disassembled much to apply the Lizard Skin. Not any more than what you would do to apply any of the stuck on mattings. With the use of a wide nozzle spray gun that I bought to apply it, the Lizard Skin really has no overspray. The spray pattern is very concise and can follow an edge or a line without going beyond that edge or line. I did tape up and cover with plastic sheeting everything that I did not want to get sprayed. I will tell you that it goes on thick and wet. There are two applications, one is a ceramic heat barrier and the other is a sound deadener. The medium that carries the active ingredients is water and when I sprayed it the water just laid there and I was concerned. But I was much surprised and relieved that the water wicked away and evaporated very quickly even on a cool day. Then the stuff just set up and got harder and harder. I have another reason for choosing Lizard Skin and this is one that I have stated before and i must admit that not too many people seemed too concerned with my reasoning. I like Lizard Skin because it is a solid, complete coating just as a coat of paint would be. Nothing will get through it. If you put it on good metal, it is better than any undercoating you could apply. It will not come off and the metal will be protected from rust forever. My theory about applied matts is that no matter how well you apply them, they still have seams. If water gets into your car, which it being a LBC it will, and the carpet get soaked, the water will migrate to the seams in the glued on matts and lay there. I believe the seams are the weak link that will hold water, and possibly encourage to produce rust. I believe Lizard Skin avoids that potential. Just my opinion.