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EZ bleeder?

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

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Does any one have opinion on bleeder? I've heard some won't work on Healey fittings. What is used and how easy is it to do with out assistance (pumper-person)?
TH
 
I used one recently on my motorcycle. Made a world of difference in the feel of the brakes. The kit came with an assortment of hose sizes and adaptors. I would think you'd find some combination that would work. I got a cheapy from Harbor Freight.
 
I have been successful bleeding without a pumper person: Put a jar on a support so that it is higher than the bleeder. The tubing goes in the jar with fluid. Any bubbles rise. As long as the tube is submerged, no air gets in the line.
 
th, i recently purchased one from napa on the advice of a friend that used one on his bugeye, i havent used mine yet but he tells me they work well, napa sells three versions one cheepy, one heavy duty plastic, one made of metal, i bought the heavy plastic one, ran about $50.00.
 
I've always used the jar with the clear tube but needed a pumper in the driver seat. Very time consumming and inconvienent. Since it is seldom used I'd like a cheap one.
 
tahoe healey said:
Does any one have opinion on bleeder? I've heard some won't work on Healey fittings. What is used and how easy is it to do with out assistance (pumper-person)?
TH
Click to expand...
I think one of the main problems with bleeder systems is that although a hose is securely attached to the bleeder, the bleeder screw threads are quite loose when the screw is open. A path for air to be drawn back into the system around the threads even when the end of the hose is submerged or higher than the bleeder screw. Same with a vacuum pump attached to the bleeder screw.

I find a couple of wraps of Teflon tape around the bleeder screw threads will prevent this air leakage.

Some old Healeys had a ball check valve under the bleeder screw which worked quite well.
D
 
Just used one for the first time and made a pain in the butt job really quick and painless. As Dave mentioned the bleeder screw is a source for air so the kit I got had some sealant that you have to use on the screw, that helped a lot. A little pipe tape helped as well.

Nice to do this alone, but I think back and all those good times I had with my Dad yelling at me to pump and hold Pump and hold!
 
mjobrien said:
Just used one for the first time and made a pain in the butt job really quick and painless. As Dave mentioned the bleeder screw is a source for air so the kit I got had some sealant that you have to use on the screw, that helped a lot. A little pipe tape helped as well.

Nice to do this alone, but I think back and all those good times I had with my Dad yelling at me to pump and hold Pump and hold!
Click to expand...

I agree, I bought an ez bleeder last year, the $50 one. I still asked one of my kids to pump the pedals (clutch and brake - why not create new memories) It was a snap to use on the BJ8.
 
Roger:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Does any one have opinion on bleeder? [/QUOTE]

Been using since it came out. BEST thing since sliced bread!!!

There is only ONE (required) 'trick'. 8 to 10 pounds in tire!!!! MAX!!!!

It is so I good I made (and now sell<G>) an adapter for MGT Series car. Last one I did took MAYBE 15 minutes!!!

List (damned de-valued $) is $59.95
Your price = $52.46 + ACTUAL USPS with NO 'handling' (ever) and NO Sales Tax.

Lemme know at ed@justbrits.com please!

Me
 
I think I've finally found my niche here on the forum. I'm one of those guys who always tries to think of the "inexpensive" yet efficient way to get around using a special tool that costs more than it needs to. What I use for bleeding the brakes is one of those small pump-up garden sprayers made of polyethylene. Costs about 15 bucks for a good one. Put on your own hose and there you go. Dave is right on about the air leaks at the threads (as usual). I also use some teflon tape.
 
Got a cheep bleeder from NAPA, couldn't get it to work, kept blowing off. Bought a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight for 30 bucks, works fine if you seal the threads with teflon tape.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]kept blowing off. [/QUOTE]

WAY TOO much PSI, Randy!! 8 - 10lbs and works PERFECTLY!!! Dozen cars a year!! POC :savewave:

:cheers:
Ed

PS: er, dat means over 200 cars<sigh>!
 
Went by Harbor freight today and they had a Mityvac (#07000) for $36.99 and their own brand for $25.99. Any one use either of these? I'm still most interested in the EZ-Bleeder and Ed has a good price but the USPS is a killer.
 
One other thing. How much brake fluid does the Healey take to do a complete replacement? I've looked in all my books and cannot find anything on this.
 
I used about a quart of silicone for both the brakes and clutch. Had plenty left over for top-off.
 
tahoe healey said:
Went by Harbor freight today and they had a Mityvac (#07000) for $36.99 and their own brand for $25.99. Any one use either of these? I'm still most interested in the EZ-Bleeder and Ed has a good price but the USPS is a killer.
Click to expand...
Used the EZ bleeder, all worked very well. The screws on the bleeders need to be treated first, easy job, then mereley place the EZ in a jar with the one way valve down and pump away. Watch the Brake fluid container so you don't run out of fluid. Sorry, don't remember how much it cost, but it was worth it. I did have a bugger of a time with the clutch cylinder however, as it is so close to the frame and transmission very difficult to keep it in place.
Good luck, :yesnod:
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "screws on the bleeders need to be treated"?
My understanding is that the EZ bleeders pushes the fluid while the Mityvac type sucks the fluid. If it sucks the fluid out at each wheel why do you need teflon tape at the threads?
 
tahoe healey said:
I'm not sure what you mean by "screws on the bleeders need to be treated"?
My understanding is that the EZ bleeders pushes the fluid while the Mityvac type sucks the fluid. If it sucks the fluid out at each wheel why do you need teflon tape at the threads?
Click to expand...
Well, I was referring to the EZ bleed system where you have to pump the pedal, but it doesn't matter which system you use air could leak back in the system when pressure is reduced at the bleeder valve.
 
I now understand that the one where you presurize the resevoir adds water and air to the fluid by putting the fluid under pressure???? I think I'll stick to the jar and clear tube with my Honey in the driver seat.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Well, I was referring to the EZ bleed system where you have to pump the pedal,... [/QUOTE]
Johnny, that is <span style="color: #990000"> <span style="font-weight: bold">NOT</span></span> the eeZbleed!! And I have NO idea what you are talking about?!?!? :crazyeyes: :nonono:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I now understand that the one where you presurize the resevoir adds water and air to the fluid by putting the fluid under pressure???? [/QUOTE]
That IS closer, Tahoo :banana:

eeZ has a container that one puts NEW fluid into, then connect to M/C. Connect the other hose to front tyre <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">AFTER</span></span></span> letting air out of it down to 8 to 10 PSI. Then do bleeding of each corner in usual order. Secret is the tyre's PSI and <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">NOT</span></span> letting the "feed" jar to empty!! :hammer:

One does <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">NOT</span></span></span> need to "prep" the bleeders as they have <span style="font-weight: bold">CONSTANT</span> fluid going thru them (after bubbles "pass" by :lol:smile:!!

Ones DOES still need clear hose & clear jug (of some sort). I will go take a pic of what I use and add soon.

Guess I need to do a video :devilgrin: :jester:
grin.gif


:cheers:
Ed
 
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