Exhaust manifold

[tahoe healey]

While attempting to change out the exhaust system, I found the manifold flange broken off in one corner and the studs thread worn. The rear one apparently breaks more than the front (so I was told by the guy I'm getting rebuilt replacements form). If you've ever removed the intake and exhaust manifolds did you ever wounder how they got them on in the first place? It seemed like each nut took a different tool and skill to remove. My question is, what is the proper torque settings for the flange and manifold nuts and, more important, how do you get a torque wrench in there?
thanks.

 

[Keoke]

Tahoe HLY, Forget the torque wrench just snug them up tightly . Be sure to use brass nuts on the studs which join the down pipes to the manifold.They got them on and their story is by using flex joints in the down pipes.-FWIW---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
My question is, what is the proper torque settings for the flange and manifold nuts and, more important, how do you get a torque wrench in there?
thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]
With new 3/8" studs & brass nuts, heavy washers (.225" thick) under the nuts, antiseize on the threads, I usually tighten to as much as I can pull with one hand on a 9" box end wrench. No way to get a torque wrench on them.

Run a flat file over the head & flange surfaces to detect warping & correct if necessary.

One thing to look out for, on the ones where there is a split joint, half intake & half exhaust under the same washer, make very sure that the two flanges are exactly the same thickness. If not, the studs will try to bend sideways & unequal pressure will be put on the two flanges. Since the stud won't really bend, you will end up with the thinner of the two flanges not pulling down on the head. If the two thickness's are different, put shims under the thinner ones, between flange & washer to make them the same. Tighten them all in stages to final.
D