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Exhaust manifold replacement

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RobSelina

RobSelina

Jedi Warrior
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While inspecting the intake and exhaust, I noticed the exhaust manifold is cracked rather badly. Looking at replacing it with a header. Seems moss has one for around $340 and VB has the pace setter for $250.

Any opinions on the pace setter? figure I might as well upgrade while I'm swapping out parts....
 
I've heard both good and bad... much gnashing of teeth over fit by some, others wondering what all the fuss was about. Personally, I'd say: "go for it!" How bad could it BE?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
i have a pacesetter....not totally happy with it. It is of two piece construction, which seems to be problematic (at least for me). i was just checking out the moss one. it looks like it might be a bit better. i would like to hear what the racers are using.....


mark
 
I have a Pacesetter "VB style" header which I got brand new from eBay for $150. Check there before buying elsewhere.

I am okay with my Pacesetter, but I have a neighbor with a MIG welder. It might be a bit of pain to deal without a welder handy.

If you do get one, be sure you strip the paint that comes on it and replace with a coating that can take high temps. You can get high temp paint in rattle cans from your local auto store- 'bout $5 a can. Also, you may need to ground out the insides of the tubes where they mate with the head. Mine had a bunch of "over weld" in there that would have seriously blocked up flow.
 
"Swarf". One of the complaints.

What a shame Hooker Headers went Tango-Uniform on us. THAT was a sweet header.
 
I don't know if Stahl makes one for the 1500 Midget or not, but the Spitfire item is a thing of beauty.
Check Rimmer Bros. and see what they have.
I think the Pacesetter is an unmitigated piece of turtle flop.
Jeff
 
As far as header coatings, the cheapest and the best is to remove all the paint, rub oil over the whole header and start the engine. Let the header get hot and burn all the oil off. the header will not rust after that. Kinda smokey fix but it works great. The pacetter will work ok for the street. An LCB type unit is better. APT, Mini Mania and others carry LCB type units for the A-series.
 
Quoting self:
[ QUOTE ]
How bad could it BE?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
what are the odds a a spit header fitting a 1500 midget?

mark
 
nevermind, they dont even look the same


mark
 
cool, thanks for the input guys.

Want to get her back on the road so I've bit the bullet and I figure I'll try it out.

I do have a MIG and angle grinder so I'll make it work....
 
Mark,

That's actually what mine is ... I had to bend over the lip on the frame rail to make it fit and it's still a very tight fit. Generally not recommended.
 
[ QUOTE ]

I do have a MIG and angle grinder so I'll make it work....

[/ QUOTE ]

Good attitude! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I canceled this order as I thought about it harder. The 2" collector is too large for my liking, I can't aford the loss of ground clearance. I'd rather run the stock exhaust and have a 3/4" lower suspension.

I've since got to thinking about less orthodox solutions. Upon first glance, I cannot run the exhaust within the cab since it would require the passenger seat be removed which is not allowed within SCCA regulations for SP.

I'm wondering about running an ovaled collector. It seems that if I used 1.25" dia primary pipes, a 3.5" or 3.75" diameter tube ovaled to roughly 1.25" x 5" would allow me to run an exhaust pipe with an equivalent area to a standard 2.75" exhaust pipe but with a clearance loss of only 1.25", actually gaining 1/4" of clearance from my present system.

I'm going to think about this a little harder before I make up my mind on how to proceed...

FYI, Summit has a very nice price on the pace setter header:

https://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...mp;autoview=sku
 
Rob,

that ovaled tube sounds ridiculously large to me. I agree, though, that you don't want to lose 3/4" ground clearance. 2 or 2.25" exhaust pipe is more than adequate. Actually, there may be some advantage from sticking with a 1.5 or going to 1.75" dia tubing, because you don't really need all that volume all the time (in between exhaust events, the space actually goes unused). Don't get me wrong, I think the headers are a good idea, but the collector may be a bit overkill. It'd have to be tested to see for sure.

At any rate, there may be a way to go with in-tunnel exhaust, but it'd be a VERY tight fit. Ground clearance definitely isn't something to sniff at.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Rob,

that ovaled tube sounds ridiculously large to me. I agree, though, that you don't want to lose 3/4" ground clearance. 2 or 2.25" exhaust pipe is more than adequate. Actually, there may be some advantage from sticking with a 1.5 or going to 1.75" dia tubing, because you don't really need all that volume all the time (in between exhaust events, the space actually goes unused). Don't get me wrong, I think the headers are a good idea, but the collector may be a bit overkill. It'd have to be tested to see for sure.

At any rate, there may be a way to go with in-tunnel exhaust, but it'd be a VERY tight fit. Ground clearance definitely isn't something to sniff at.

[/ QUOTE ]

Agreed that the collector seems very large, but two thoughts:
1- the 3.5" diameter comes from a simple need to run the primary pipes in all horizontal instead of clustered. That's the diameter in which they will fit. Basically this would require the least fabrication.

2 - the area of the modified 3.5" pipe would be equivalent to 2.75" exhaust tubing. Still big but not quite as ridiculous as it first sounds.

I think I would neck down to 2" tubing once I cross under the axle sinc I wouldn't need my funky oval soution there, and go through a 2" glass pack.

Alternatively, I could neck everything down at the collector and run ovaled 2.5" pipe under the car and compress it to 1" in height, would still be close to 2" round pipe in area, though it would mean more fabrication.....

just thinking out loud, I might just decide to stick with the exhaust as I have it for the time being (stock manifold, 1.5" tubing to a 1.5"x18" glass pack)
 
I'd stick with the stock exhaust for now if you can. However, I'd definitely opt for the second choice if possible when the time comes. It'll be a better (performance wise) solution for the problem. Also, my exhaust actually runs up and over the rear axle. This works fairly well. Another thing to remember is that flanges (used to make it easily disassembleable) reduce my ground clearance significantly. Also, I've got a 'real' muffler on mine, and it's awful loud. I'm not sure how long I could tolerate a glasspack if I were you. I know yours probably won't scream quite as much, but it'll still be loud!
 
I don't know as the tunnel exhaust would be a viable solution with the 1500. It's a tight squeeze with the A series, requiring a new trans mount, and an expensive system. Huffaker gets around $1200 for the A series setup.
The 1500 bell housing would probably need modification for clearance. I'm just going off the top of my head, as I don't mess with the 1500 Spridgets. I do know that when we built my tunnel exhaust at Huffakers, we used a jig consisting of the front frame rails and trans tunnel from a cast off car to ensure that everything fit correctly. Bolted in a block and head, and then built from that back to the tunnel exit.
Jeff
 
Hmmm... I think you are over thinking this one, Rob. I was actually able to increase my ground clearance by raising the 2" part of the pipe to almost right against the pan. I then wrapped the part of the pipe closest to the pan with left over header wrap.

I used to "ping" my already partially flattened 1.75" pipe on the speed bump at work every day. Since going to 2", I have not pinged once.
 
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