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Exhaust Manifold/Headers BN2

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349A

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I’m starting to think about a set of headers an a muffler for my M spec BN2. I’m looking for feedback on which people are happy with in terms of sound and quality. I’m not expecting a big power difference between the various ones available so sound and fit are more interesting to me. I have a full M spec setup and a Denis Welch aluminum fast road head on the shelf ready for install.

Currently I have the cast iron stock manifold and what I believe is a M silencer. Its oval in shape.

I’ve seen these model exhausts available:
AH Spares
Denis Welch
Cape International Derrington style
Maniflow

DW has the larger silencer as a possibility. Maniflow might not be 2” like the others, I’m unsure.

I definitely want a sportier sound although many past posts warn against a side exit… I’m still intrigued. Its a LHD car so the exhaust would exit underneath the drivers door. I don’t want a headache or hearing damage but do like it a bit raucous.

Any experiences or thoughts welcome. Thanks!
 
I have a BN4 with Kirk headers and a stock muffler and side exhaust, so I can't help with which to install in a BN2, but an earplug in your left ear will help retain your hearing.
 
dougie said:
If it was me, I'd go with this system, > Austin Healey - Capesport Exhaust System S/S - (BN1 + BN2) Rear Exit < and then coated with this, > Heat Coating for Headers & Exhaust | Jet-Hot — Jet-Hot <
But I like the ultimate performance that still appears stock.....
Click to expand...

That exhaust looks the business; I may get one for myself (but the Falcon SS we put in my BN2 is holding up well). A problem with aftermarket downpipes--and I've heard with OEM as well--is that the 90deg curve to the muffler is too shallow and the clutch pedal lever will hit it if you push it all the way in (which your are admonished to do with manual transmissions--anyone know why except to make sure you're completely releasing the disk?). I don't know if that's the reason for the forward bend on this one, but it appears it would avoid that problem.

There appears to be a joint in front of the muffler, but doesn't look to be flex pipe; any idea what this is about? FWIW, I had Jet Hot ceramic coating applied to my BJ8's exhaust, but didn't see any meaningful reduction in engine bay temp, and they're expensive compared to others offering similar services (no idea of relative quality).
 
Bob_Spidell said:
That exhaust looks the business; I may get one for myself (but the Falcon SS we put in my BN2 is holding up well). A problem with aftermarket downpipes--and I've heard with OEM as well--is that the 90deg curve to the muffler is too shallow and the clutch pedal lever will hit it if you push it all the way in (which your are admonished to do with manual transmissions--anyone know why except to make sure you're completely releasing the disk?). I don't know if that's the reason for the forward bend on this one, but it appears it would avoid that problem.

There appears to be a joint in front of the muffler, but doesn't look to be flex pipe; any idea what this is about? FWIW, I had Jet Hot ceramic coating applied to my BJ8's exhaust, but didn't see any meaningful reduction in engine bay temp, and they're expensive compared to others offering similar services (no idea of relative quality).
Click to expand...
Interesting comment about hitting the manifold down pipe with the clutch, mine currently does that when pressing all the way down. It wouldn’t take very much clearance to fix that issue, maybe a 1/4” max. Interesting observation! My stock exhaust manifold was jet hot coated during the PO’s restoration. I’m unsure what it has done for temps but mine runs perfectly at 190 and I haven’t had any heat issues. Stock radiator, fan and I live in the desert.
 
re: "It wouldn’t take very much clearance to fix that issue, maybe a 1/4” max."

A well-placed blow from a ball-pein hammer would do it, but I just can't bring myself to try. Sometimes, a kink or dent in an exhaust will cause a tinny 'tinkling' sound. As an aside, I don't care for the SS exhaust look on a Healey exhaust (exhausts are better heard and not seen IMO). I coat mine with a black, high-temp coating.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
re: "It wouldn’t take very much clearance to fix that issue, maybe a 1/4” max."

A well-placed blow from a ball-pein hammer would do it, but I just can't bring myself to try. Sometimes, a kink or dent in an exhaust will cause a tinny 'tinkling' sound. As an aside, I don't care for the SS exhaust look on a Healey exhaust (exhausts are better heard and not seen IMO). I coat mine with a black, high-temp coating.
Click to expand...
I’d agree, the polished look works on hotrods but not Healey’s.
 
Has anyone installed the Cape/Derrington header/exhaust? If so, any fitment or other issues? Any idea what the joint ahead of the muffler is for? I'm seriously considering one (even if it just keeps my DWM steering rack company on the shelf).

cape-international.com

Welcome to A.H. Spares!

cape-international.com cape-international.com
 
No, the section of the downpipe a few inches in front of the muffler joint, where flex pipe would be on a stock muffler. Looks like solid pipe.
 
It is solid pipe. It's called a collector. That where the 2 pipes go into one.
 
This is a collector?
 

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Yes, there are two pipes on the left-hand side and one on the right. It's hard to see, but the pipe from the center cylinders is behind the pipe from the outer two cylinders.
 
Ah, OK. I wasn't seeing it (obviously).

So, without the section of flex-pipe, what absorbs the engine movements and vibrations? Those flimsy stock rubber/metal hangers?
 
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