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Exhaust issues

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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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I seem to have a leak at the junction of the manifold and front exhaust pipe on my Bugeye, sounds like it's farting. Stock 948cc and stock exhaust.

It's pretty hard to get to the nuts on the connection, and since I didn't want to disassemble the intake, I contorted with some stubby flex head and tightened the connection best I could.
Still leaks.
Looks like a funky connection with no gasket or doughnut.

Thoughts?

Also, when I replace the 948 with the 1275, what should I do for exhaust? Put on the 1275 exhaust system for the 1968 and later cars or something cobbled together between the later system and my stock bugeye exhaust?

Fred
 
TulsaFred said:
I seem to have a leak at the junction of the manifold and front exhaust pipe on my Bugeye, sounds like it's farting.

Thoughts?

Fred
Click to expand...

Bad gas? :devilgrin: runs and hides
 
A couple tricks to getting the clamp to seat the pipe to manifold. First off, make sire the flange on the pipe isn't distorted from the last time it was cinched up. Also, make sure that you have all four special washers under the bolt heads and nuts. Lastly, apply some grease to the clamp surfaces before you put it all together. My assumption is it helps the clamp slide into place and apply even pressure better.

When you switch to the 1275, use the 3 bolt flange manifold for the 1275, or get yourself a header. If you have a stock 948 exhaust, you'll want to get a larger exhaust pipe anyway.
 
Gerard said:
A couple tricks to getting the clamp to seat Lastly, apply some grease to the clamp surfaces before you put it all together. My assumption is it helps the clamp slide into place and apply even pressure better.
Click to expand...

Paul A. told me to lube that clamp thingy with motor oil before assembly because it will burn off quickly. .. I use ROD COUPLINGS instead of just nuts in when I put mine together, finding the extra length makes them easier to reach. (Well I admit that I use them because they were there when I bought the car, but still they do make it easy.
 
Pythias said:
Gerard said:
A couple tricks to getting the clamp to seat Lastly, apply some grease to the clamp surfaces before you put it all together. My assumption is it helps the clamp slide into place and apply even pressure better.
Click to expand...

Paul A. told me to lube that clamp thingy with motor oil before assembly because it will burn off quickly. .. I use ROD COUPLINGS instead of just nuts in when I put mine together, finding the extra length makes them easier to reach. (Well I admit that I use them because they were there when I bought the car, but still they do make it easy.
Click to expand...

I misspoke. Yes, oil would be better. Thanks for the correction Bill. The rod couplings are a good idea, but I think the special washers should still be used as I think they distribute the clamping force more evenly. I realize these are often missing and I notice that they are not illustrated in the exhaust system parts in the Moss catalog. They are "D" shaped and are curved over the edge to overlap the ends of the clamp, keeping it located and unable to turn. You can see them in this picture.
MufflerClamp.jpg
 
I used foil exhaust tape around that manifold connection before putting the clamp on, just one or two wraps (any more than that & clamp won't fit properly) - once the clamp is on it seals that tape around the joint very well - worked for me.
 
I have those "D" thingys, and used them, (at least I think I did?) I just didn't realize that's what they were all about. I like the idea of foil tape too. ... until it's time to take it apart that is, and have to try to clean all the adhesive off that's been cooked on.
 
I had mine apart to change head gasket couple years ago & it wasn't to bad of a clean up, most of the adheasive had broken down, basically a foil wrap was all that was left..
 
Thanks
great advice as usual

What are rod couplings?

Do you normally remove the intake manifold and heat shield to do work on this connection?

Fred
 
Rod Couplings are threaded just like nuts of the same size, but are used to connect pieces of "all-thread" so that it will have the same strength as a whole piece of rod would. ...

Simply, like a nut, but about 2" long, depending upon the size of rod. With them I can reach up and under the heat shield and not remove anything other than the clamp itself. NOT for concourse cars.
 
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