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Exchange POR-15 war stories

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Another hint, that applies to all paint, is to paint a piece of scrap at the same time you are doing the intended surface. Now you have a piece you can use to judge if the time is right for the next coat without putting your finger on a freshly coated surface that matters.
Jeff
 
Thank you guys for all of the useful information. I have ordered a pint (Not cheap - ÂŁ22, about $44 with postage). I am looking forward to trying it out, although I am a little scared of it!! It sounds as though it should also be good to use on suspension components, rear axle cover, chassis, etc, etc, etc
 
Nick - are you serious? ÂŁ22, plus another 22 for postage?

Good grief. I think I could buy it here and ship it to you via USPS for less.

Yikes.
Tom
 
Tom,
Sorry, it was ÂŁ22 in total. ÂŁ17 for the POR and ÂŁ5 for postage. That was expensive enough, thank you!!
Nick
 
Brosky said:
Just for the record. It took six of the small cans to do my TR6 underbody with two complete coats. And as you can see in the link above and below, we did everything, less the suspension, but including the floor pans.

I think that I still have a full six pack left, as I didn't believe that it would cover that well.

Get the Marine Clean and the Treatment and do it right. You won't be sorry.

https://www.74tr6.com/framestripping.htm
Click to expand...

I think those six pack cans are 4 oz each. Six times
4 equals 24oz., or 1.5 pints, if my math is correct.

I point this up so you can appreciate
the potential volume a pint will cover. Preparing
more surface and actually getting the product onto the
vehicle parts rather than having it go bad on the shelf
gives you more bang for your buck.

If you cover and/or patch the maximum or thereabouts the
pint will cover, I think the relative cost of material
is cheap.

On the aforementoned regarding the parts/paint stuck
to the wood...my experience as well. I have also heard
some seemingly outlandish claims about guys actually
gluing sheetmetal into place by painting each surface/face
and pressing them statically somehow....a brick...
some kind of contraption....vice grips....you get the
idea, and they claim as good as welded. Wasn't sure
whether to buy into it...until I've seen what it does.
Now, I look less suspiciously at such story, but have
no personal experience trying such. A whole other
way to do a quick patch??
 
I've never used POR...

But I do use a product we use on the steam engines by United Laboratories called , ironically enough, Triumph.(!)


https://www.unitedlabsinc.com/usa/catalog/shopexd.asp?id=830


Goes on easy, and dries really hard.

Takes us about 3 hours to needle scale about a square meter of it in our coal bins.

If you do use this stuff ever, be sure to mix it well. Like 20 minutes with the paddle mixer to get all the solids in solution.
 
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