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TR2/3/3A Excessive cranking before it starts.

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A big thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions on this issue.

I have found that the main problem was the outer of the choke cable was sliding into the knob assembly so pulling the choke only shortened the outer not the inner. This did nothing to move the jets.

I attempted to crimp the knob assembly to the outer having first applied locktite to the outer. This morning I thought about it and found a steel rope thimble that fitted the cable outer and crimped that as a stop.

Then reset the front carb taking up the preload as SP53 suggested then adjusted the linkage so the rear carb had it's preload applied.

It takes a lot of effort to pull the choke but it started right up.

I notice the outer has slipped some in the carb clamp. Have to check that in the morning.

Thanks again. I hope this has been put to bed.
David
Choke cable with crimped ring.jpg
Choke open full.jpg
 
I changed the cable with a modern pushbike brake cable which has a teflon coated inner for better slip and get some real slippery stuff on the jets that will help too. Good to see it's now up and running.

Graham
 
Hello Graham

Thanks for the bike cable tip. May have to look for some.
Did you just change the outer?

Have to be careful what you lub the jets with?

David
 
Very nice David that is what a working choke looks like. You are very clever to fiddle that choke to work with your bits and such. Around here where I live in the dampness and cold/cool weather a function choke is imperative. I remember times when guys here would say that tr3s were cold blooded and would put starter fluid in winter in them, and these guys were good mechanics; plus for a long time the stock chokes were N/A. Years ago Don Elliot who bought his car new contributed a great deal on how the a proper choked worked at least to me and that it will pull out easily when install correctly. For many years I had my choke working, but it took so much force, I would break knobs and used both hands to pull it out. Make sure the choke shuts off and the jets return or you will run rich and have a whole new set of problems. IMHO many tr3 died or were laid to rest because of a simple choke problem; they either ran so rich they washed out the compression or would start so hard they wore out the battery, starter, solenoid or anything connected to that system. The stock choke that Moss sells works well and only takes 2 fingers to pull out when everything is correct.
Peace out steve
 
Hello David

I fitted a new inner at the same time,I think there is some depressions in the choke shaft that need to be drilled and you can pull the old inner out and soft solder the new one in

Graham
 
DavidApp said:
A big thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions on this issue.

I have found that the main problem was the outer of the choke cable was sliding into the knob assembly so pulling the choke only shortened the outer not the inner. This did nothing to move the jets.

I attempted to crimp the knob assembly to the outer having first applied locktite to the outer. This morning I thought about it and found a steel rope thimble that fitted the cable outer and crimped that as a stop.

Then reset the front carb taking up the preload as SP53 suggested then adjusted the linkage so the rear carb had it's preload applied.

It takes a lot of effort to pull the choke but it started right up.

I notice the outer has slipped some in the carb clamp. Have to check that in the morning.

Thanks again. I hope this has been put to bed.
DavidView attachment 56489
View attachment 56490
Click to expand...

It would also appear that the choke link (#11 in the link) is routed logically but is incorrect. Here is a link picture of the correct setup as posted by Randall on another forum. I don't understand the engineering behind this setup but it made an improvement with my choke.
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums...l pages/FIG28CARBURETTORSLINKAGE.jpg~original
Tom
 
Yes Tom is correct; if you look at my dirty choke pictures you will see I have the U shaped keepers at the end of the adjustment rod on the outside of the brass linkage. (there is debate on what side the pin goes through, but I prefer the way I have it)Plus like said it makes a big difference on the effort it takes to pull the choke. IMO, the reason is the angle of the dangle with the choke and the straightness of the geometry of choke because the knob is actually inward on the dash.
 
If you look at my earlier photos I did have the fork end on the outside as shown in the "More BS" book. The choke cable swivel pin would indicate that is the correct way by its length. I had to use washers to take up the extra length when I assembled as shown in the later photos.
I will change that in the morning and see if it makes the choke pull easier.

The good news is it starts like it did originally after only a few seconds of cranking. I could with difficulty start it with the handle before. The difficulty being getting it over compression.

David
 
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