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TR2/3/3A Excessive cranking before it starts.
- Thread starter DavidApp
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Here are some photos. It was hard to get it with full choke as ti does not want to stay all the way out so I have to hold it.
It looks like your linkage on the front carb is straddling the bronze lever. In the More BS booklet it shows the front linkage as being off to one side so the choke cable has a straight shot.
David
Full choke rear carb
Full choke front carb. It has slipped a bit because I could not reach the choke knob and get a good photo
Choke off rear carb
Choke off front carb
It looks like your linkage on the front carb is straddling the bronze lever. In the More BS booklet it shows the front linkage as being off to one side so the choke cable has a straight shot.
David
Graham H
Jedi Warrior
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I think the owners manual showes the linkage to the rear carb is mounted on the outside of the choke lever,i dont remeber if the front one is the same. I hade it hooked up like that and it didn't look right so i changed it back with some small adjustments to the angle of the cabel attachment bracket.
Yours looks like it is getting full choke so are the float chambers full of fuel? if you take the dash pot and throttel out can you see gas in the main jet with the choke pulled out? It must be lean because when you primed it or pulled the choke out hard it started up ok, i'v adjusted my choke so the first click is high idle and the second click is richer mixture. If i havnt started it for a week or so i need three clicks to start then back it off one untill it warms up.
Graham
Yours looks like it is getting full choke so are the float chambers full of fuel? if you take the dash pot and throttel out can you see gas in the main jet with the choke pulled out? It must be lean because when you primed it or pulled the choke out hard it started up ok, i'v adjusted my choke so the first click is high idle and the second click is richer mixture. If i havnt started it for a week or so i need three clicks to start then back it off one untill it warms up.
Graham
I did take the dash pots off but I am not sure I can see the fuel. LED flash lights are not always the best in some cases. How close to the top should the fuel be?
I have the plastic floats and did turn the float chamber over to check the lever setting There seems to be a small spring in the needle valve.
David
I have the plastic floats and did turn the float chamber over to check the lever setting There seems to be a small spring in the needle valve.
David
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Per several posts by (I believe) CJD, the gas should be right at the top of the jet with choke released.
Bob
Bob
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Per the workshop manual, the fuel level should be 1/8" below the bottom of the venturi (aka bridge). This is independent of the jet position/choke.
If yours is significantly different than that, I suggest finding and fixing the problem. The 1/8" should be achieved with the 7/16" adjustment. If not, your fuel pressure may be too high, the needle valve leaking or some similar problem. Like other adjustments, there is a certain amount of "feel" involved as well. It's always "possible to pass a 7/16" rod" if enough force is supplied
So I apply a small amount of force (just light finger pressure) to the lever, so the valve is fully closed, then judge how easily the rod slides.
If yours is significantly different than that, I suggest finding and fixing the problem. The 1/8" should be achieved with the 7/16" adjustment. If not, your fuel pressure may be too high, the needle valve leaking or some similar problem. Like other adjustments, there is a certain amount of "feel" involved as well. It's always "possible to pass a 7/16" rod" if enough force is supplied
So I apply a small amount of force (just light finger pressure) to the lever, so the valve is fully closed, then judge how easily the rod slides.
CJD
Yoda
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Very pretty carbs...I would think they are brand new!
That said, I think your carbs are perfect, David, and I feel you are chasing your tail on this. If it bothers you, get the proper fuel pump with the priming lever. Then if you engine has sat for a while, use the primer and it will start right off. The factory had the primer lever for a reason!
That said, I think your carbs are perfect, David, and I feel you are chasing your tail on this. If it bothers you, get the proper fuel pump with the priming lever. Then if you engine has sat for a while, use the primer and it will start right off. The factory had the primer lever for a reason!
I must be missing something, but I do not see your choke working. The jet should pull away from the brass nut about ÂĽ inch. Your arms are moving form a vertical position; however, IMH they should be about where they at with the choke off and from that positon know set the choke to get the play out of the linkage so that the jet pulls down; your choke is not working.
steve
steve
Thank you John.
That is how they come back from Joe C in NY.
I do feel like I am chasing my tail a bit.
Steve
I believe you are correct. The jets do not seem to be moving much if at all. The choke cable is straightening out as I pull the choke. It is a brand new cable but was bought in 1998 by the PO.
Am considering what is the best plan of attack.
I do not think I can take all that lost motion out by tightening the cable.
David
That is how they come back from Joe C in NY.
I do feel like I am chasing my tail a bit.
Steve
I believe you are correct. The jets do not seem to be moving much if at all. The choke cable is straightening out as I pull the choke. It is a brand new cable but was bought in 1998 by the PO.
Am considering what is the best plan of attack.
I do not think I can take all that lost motion out by tightening the cable.
David
There is a brass clip like John showed in his post about the spire nuts that will hold the slack. It goes on the brace. You should be able to fiddle that little bit you need; you are almost there. Your springs are to get to drag. Once you get the choke slack a little better it will help some. Does your choke twist to the right? Do you have the original clamp for the cable?
I have found that the outer of the cable is getting pulled into the choke knob holder. It slides in and out as the choke is pulled and pushed in. I have put dome lock tite on the outer, tried to re-crimp it and added some epoxy on the outside to stop it sliding. See if that helps.
It does lock and turn to release it.
David
It does lock and turn to release it.
David
Graham H
Jedi Warrior
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Crimping the outer should stop it from sliding in and out and having a second look at your jets as suggested previously they are yet to pull down so you have no choke. I think when i pull my choke all the way out the link pin on the front carb touches the cable outer anchor bracket. You need to have the whole system well lubricated or you will need to put one foot on the dash to get enough purchase to pull the choke all the way out,keep at it David.
Graham
Graham
I am kinda embarrassed to show these pictures because the car is dirty. This car is my daily driver that is sometimes put up in the barn when my shop is full. I took the air cleaners off to see better plus there are gas stains and WD40 all over. Anyways, first I cannot tell if it is camera angle or not, but the cable holder on the front carb in your pictures looks bent. Next the brass linkage should be vertical or perpendicular to the carb when off. Next when adjusting the cable just slid long clamping pin in and out of the hole on the brass linage, so the fiddling is reduced. Plus there is some load on the choke, so that when you slid the pin it you will have to push the brass linkage back. The brass linkage for the preload is important and is set forward maybe ½ inch and then pulled back slightly to put the front cable clamping pin in the hole ( just leave cotter key off for a while) and that will give the vertical position of the brass linkage and the preload is critical, so push thing the brass linkage arms forward and then pull them back to vertical position and re- install the pin to the brass linkage holder; it should work fine after that. I can pull my choke out with 2 fingers. Moreover, I have seen chokes that where simply too long, but do not cut yours just yet. I posted a picture of the brass holder also, but it is not too critical to have the extra cable if not too much a little should be ok under the dash.
Peace out
Peace out
I do not have a pre 60K body tub to look at, but I think your choke geometry might be wrong because of the hole the cable goes through on the firewall. I believe the cable should be on the other side of the brass arm. Eyeball where the knob is inside the car and see if it goes in that other hole I see. I just do not know, but it looks wrong
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Try clipping a clothespin on the choke shaft with the choke knob fully out, or if that won't hold, use a pair of vise grips (very gently). Then give us a photo of the jets.
Or, another easy test is to turn the key on, then put your left hand around the choke lever and the cable support and squeeze them together until they almost meet (which should be the full choke position). Then push the button on the starter solenoid and see if it starts.
Or, another easy test is to turn the key on, then put your left hand around the choke lever and the cable support and squeeze them together until they almost meet (which should be the full choke position). Then push the button on the starter solenoid and see if it starts.
Hey David I think I told the opposite direction to set the preload of the choke. It has been a while since I set one, so you might have to set the brass arms back to firewall about at that angle you so show with the choke pulled out then unhook the cable and push the leakage forward to vertical positon to get the play out and reinstall the pin, so when you pull back you will get 2 clicks on the choke. when you pull to the second click it will run rick in just a couple of seconds so the twist the cable to left and let the choke return to the first click then when warm turn to the left again and it should go home.
