ever see a rusty thrust washer?

[TexasKnucklehead]

I was cleaning up the thrust washers, assuming I could reuse them when I noticed an issue. I was using extra fine sand paper to remove what I suppose is rust and old burnt oil. The little gap that is normally recessed (I assume to alow oil to flow) is swelled to above the normal level. Looking closely at the bottom washer, you can see the bi-metal has seperated and is rusty. I have no idea if this happened before or after the engine was last run, but the crank appears to be ok. That washer would have been on the upper half of the crank. This is the engine that was under 20' of salt water.

I doubt this normal for a thrust washer.

 

[apbos]

I'm going to be using new thrust washers. They soaked in rain water for 20 years.

Before

After

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Rain water for 20 years is bad, but salt water for 2 days is worse. -I suppose the water was in there for a year until I got it and took it apart. I found sand when I pulled the starter, rust on the timing chain, and serious rust in the block. -Yours looks as good as new now. I'm not that close.

 

[apbos]

The great thing about these motors is that they can be cleaned up. New sleaves, pistons etc and boil out the block. I thought I had a boat anchor a year ago. Now I'm looking for bling to put on the thing (Offy valve cover, alloy front palate, chrome alternator etc....)

Paul

 

[Guest]

This might be how the phrase "Bost Anchor" got started

 

[Guest]

Boat Anchor Sorry no coffee yet

 

[LfmTR4]

I would go with Scott Helm's solid alloy TW's and you won't have that problem again. I had a replacement TW delaminate on me after about 1,000 miles, gall and fall into the pan.

Cost me an engine pull and about $200 in machine work. Didn't know that Helm's washers were available then but they are in there now.

NFI, take a look https://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6.html

Lou

 

[simpson]

TexasKH, Would you say that head is beyond repair - severe rusting in the combustion chambers?

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

I am hoping not, but I think you are referring to the combustion chambers in the block (the above pic), not the head. Here's another picture of the block prior to removal of the piston liners. The TR3-4 are 'lined' engines, meaning the combustion chamber is entirely encompassed by the liner. (Although the top is the head.) The liner is like a section of pipe machined to fit inside the block, and also machined for the piston on the inside. I don't think rust is uncommon to the area around the liner, since water is circulated there by the water pump -although I think my rust is excessive. These are called wet liners, since water cools them directly, rather than some styles where another metal would surround the liner.

The head has just been cleaned up, and as soon as I get some new guides, it will be off to be machined. I have a new set of pistons with liners that I plan to put back in the original block. As Paul stated earlier, these engines are capable of severe abuse, but can be brought back into service.

 

[bgbassplyr]

A little elbow grease and that one will buff right out.

 

[tdskip]

You guys rock - thanks for the update on both engines.