• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Ever look at you accel pedal brackets?

Share this page

Trevor Jessie

Trevor Jessie

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I'll try to make a long story short.

I wanted a pendant style pedal on the Ugly Bug, but the 1500 pedal I had did not fit because of the difference in distance between the mounting locations. So... I cut the pendant portion off the 1500 and welded it to the original organ pedal style arm. Problem solved! NOT SO FAST.

All was well for several weeks until I was driving to the boat ramp for the autocross at LotO. The little brackets holding the pedal arm broke! They are made of cast pot metal. So... some creative use of some nylon zip ties and I'm good.

Frank offered me a spare pedal/bracket that he just happened to bring with him, but it wouldn't work and you can't take the brackets off because they are slipped on before the arm is bent.

Fast forward to today when I decide to fix the pedal. I cut my accel pedal arm in half so that I can slip on some more pot metal brackets that I have laying around. I'm all set to weld the thing back together when I have an epiphany. Maybe. Just maybe, the other brackets failed because they got hot when I welded the pendant pedal. So, I decided to reconnect the accel arm by slipping a bit of steel tubing over the splice and lock it in place with some roll pins. Darn! no roll pins, so I just drill and tap for some #6 machine screws for now.

So... If the brackets break I'll machine some new ones from steel and I'll have an easy way to get them in place.
 
Works for me Trevor. And I would bet you are correct on the heat damage.
 
I wanted something a bit different myself for my '62 Sprite ( https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_62_sprite.htm ) . After spending way too much time doing panel replacement it was great to spend a day putting together a new accelerator linkage and pedal. The pedal is the aluminum Paddy Hopkirk offered by several dealers (including Moss). The linkage had to be reformed to clear the tilton pedal box. The end result is what I wanted.

P1010020.jpg


There are more photos of the installation on my web site.

Ray
 
PADDY!!!


YAY!!! :laugh:
 
I would love to see a photo of the other end of those pedals....
 
The 1500 pedal and linkage can be made to fit the pre 68 Spridgets in a couple of ways.
1st, find a really tiny hand to hold the nut up in the triangle frame brace and then blindly try to weld it.

This is what you get when you forget to weld that nut on while the floors are out.

A self drilling sheetmetal screw with a drop of locktite on it also works fine.
My 59 has had this for 5 years now and the screw never came loose.

On the 58 with the single wall triangle, you can get to it to weld the nut in place.

It is a direct bolt in replacement on 68-74 cars as the moved the mounting points for the collapsable steering column.
 
you can tony if you go to ray's web site, Ray looking at all the work you have done on your site all i can say is WOW!, I can't wait to see more and the finished project, maybe the dillard car show we will see it?
 
I meant in the car...did I miss that photo?
 
I thought about making a new hole and welding a nut so that I could use the 1500 pedal on the '58. However, I liked the idea of the wider mounting point. It just looked better.

If I had to do it on a car with the double wall triangle reinforcement I think I'd use a riv-nut.
 
That one & this one.....darn fine workmanship!:

P1010013.jpg
 
Oh, is that roll bar tall enough?
 
One thing you can say for Ray, his workmanship is impicable.
 
Back
Top