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Etype rear brake calipers

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KenASh

KenASh

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Hi,
I'm looking to create an extension pipe assembly to make bleeding the rear brake calipers on my '67 EType 2+2. I can gain access through the rear seat area, however as most of you know, it is a real bear to bleed the brakes with the car on the ground. Therefore, I want to make an extension pipe to move the bleeder out onto the frame area. Anyone have any thoughts? I have some ideas, but, am having trouble finding a coupling that will house the bleeder.

KenAsh...
Severna Park, MD
 
I have a modification on my E Type that is a short extension that relocates the bleed ports slightly forward for more accessibility. This will not help you if the car is on the ground. I would be careful about long extensions to the sides for ground level bleeding. If the extension line gets damaged from impact with debris, etc., you can lose brake power in a hurry.
 
Hi Jack,
Thanks for the reply. What I had in mind, was to use a modified bridge pipe to relocate the bleeder to the part of the frame visible just behind the access door. This area is protected from road hazards. Do you know the taper angle of the tip of bleed screw?

kenash..
 
I have a semi-lightweight E-Type that I race frequently and was also bothered by the difficulty in accessing the brake bleeders on the rear calipers. Because I am constantly bleeding brakes I had to find a better way. My solution was to run a stainless steel flex line from the brake bleeder port to the access opening in the trunk area directly over the brake bleeder (My car is a 1964 series 1). As my car is stripped in the rear for weight there is no carpeting, so I do not know what your situation and access is. I have been using the system for a while and it "works like a charm!"

The mounting in the trunk area has a bleeder screw fitting like normal and the brakes are bleed in the usual fashion. This way the bleeder stays completely on the inside of the car and is not exposed to damage. The flex line has enough length to allow full suspension travel and is situatied away from the brake disc. It works well for me.

GregJ
 
I cannot tell you what the bleed screw angle is but in the past, I have used standard American bleed valves on the E types and other XJ applications with no problem.
 
Hi Greg,
Your solution sounds like what I may be interested in knowing more about.I'm an ex-SCCA club racer (D production Triumphs)and know "necessity" is truly, the "Mother of inventions".
Once you extended the flexible line into the trunk, what coupling device did you use for the bleed screw to mount in?
The coupling needs a tapered 3/8 X 24 NFS thread for which the bleeder's tapered end will seal.

Thanks for the input!
KenASh...
Severna Park, MD
 
Hi,

The istallation was very simple. I was able to buy the parts "off of the shelf" from TMR (Torino Motor Racing) in Orange, Califronia. They are quite well known in the racing world for their plumbing expertise.

I decided how long I needed the flex line and they provided the specified lenght stainless line, coated with high impact rubber if you desire, with the proper thread pitch ends. The fitting into the brake caliper was determined by just giving them the bleeder screw. The other end that mounts in the trunk is swedged onto the flex line and is the correct female thread pitch to accept the bleeder screw. That end also fits into a bracket they provided that I used as a mounting plate for the trunk sheet metal. I used an existing hole in the trunk sheet metal that is next to an access/inspection opening in the trunk floor sheet metal that is directly over the brake caliper. It was simply a matter of screwing the flex line into the brake caliper and then mounting the bracket to the trunk floor with standard hardward. The bleeder end of the flex line is held onto the trunk mounted bracket by the typical spring clip you see in many brake line installations at a junction between a hard line and a flex line.

You determine the length of flex line you need by jacking-up the car so the wheels are off of the floor and the suspension is at the end of it's travel. Just measure from the caliper top to the floor of the trunk with just a little extra length so that there is no tension on the line when the suspension is fully extended.

Another nice feature of my installation is that the bleeder screw is above the caliper so that air bubbles are not an issue with the extended length.

It is really a very simple and easy way to solve the problem as long as you do not mind bleeding your brakes inside your trunk.

GregJ
 
Any chance you could post some pictures? Sounds like a perfect solution to a difficult problem.

JD
 
As an aside, and somewhat within the scope of this thread, I run a similar setup on all my hydraulic clutches. The bleed screw is now mounted in the engine bay, and no more standing on my head to bleed the clutch.
Incidentally, the threads on a #3 AN fitting are 3/8"x24, which makes the connection to the slave cylinder a snap.
Jeff
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi,

The istallation was very simple. I was able to buy the parts "off of the shelf" from TMR (Torino Motor Racing) in Orange, Califronia. They are quite well known in the racing world for their plumbing expertise.

[/ QUOTE ]

Greg,
Do they have a web site? Or other contact info?

Basil
 
TMR does not have a website. However their contact information is as follows:

TMR Inc.
2346 N. Pacific
Orange, California

Phone: 714-771-1348

They can do almost anything plumbing wise for cars and they are very good to work with.

Hope this helps.

GregJ
 
Thanks Greg!
That's just what I needed.
 
I am glad it helped. I have had great use of the arrangement, it makes the brake bleeding job very easy.

Greg
 
Re: Etype rear brake calipers...Thanks!

I juat wanted to say "Thanks " to all who responded to my posting. Your insights were much appreciated.
 
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