Engine warm up

[Keoke]

Actually sticky valves.

Keoke--I havere-read, don't know the problem, maybe I am dense, I did say 30 MPH instead of 20, but don't see that as real relevant.

Like I said you missed something. MPH is totally Irrelevant to the key information in the topic " Warming Up".

 

[Keoke]

What's the difference between Mystery Oil and "real" dashpot oil?

-----------------------The Price-----------------Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

With economy still in mind if you choose the SAE 20 weight oil for the carbs,you can kill two birds with one stone. Just trot over to your local Harley Motorcycle shop and pick up a pint or so of their "Fork Oil". This oil also can be used to top up your shocks and includes a swelling agent to extend the life of the shocks seals.

 

[GregW]

Hi Greg,
After referencing my English to English dictionary (what is so neat about fuel damaging your engine?). I think the first part of that sentence is the important part. “ The correct procedure is to let the engine run fairly fast, at approximately 1,000 RPM”. Personally, I wouldn’t lug the motor at 1000 in 4th.

 

[glemon]

Keoke maybe you missed something, re read the drivers manual scan posted earlier particularly the section on "warming up".

 

[Keoke]

Keoke maybe you missed something, re read the drivers manual scan posted earlier particularly the section on "warming up".

Like this!;

" Research has proved that the practice of warming up an engine by allowing it to idle slowly is definitely harmful,
and far less damage is done by driving the car straight on to the road from cold than letting the engine idle slowly in the garage."

I think that adequately answers Rogers original question and puts the problem in the correct perspective. Sometimes authors trying to help man understand, say too much and confuse others. Of course he could have just said "NO".---Regards-- Keoke

 

[SHG]

Is Anthony still sitting in the corner with Greg? Then someone has to have a talk with Yoda Keoke.

Keoke, Keoke, Keoke. It's not the slow idle versus cranking it on the road. It's the darn sputtering and backfiring when you don't have a hot engine. On the other hand, when warming up with full choke, the gas and crap shooting out the back makes a real mess of things.

Now maybe the answer is check to start, warm for 2 minutes and just grin and bear it as you roll through the backfirin and sputtering (though all those admirers as the BJ8 sits still tend to smirk a bit when the backfiring starts).

So, Yoda, digame. How can we do away with the backfiring and sputtering without damaging the engine with prolonged warm up, with or without choke?

 

[glemon]

Keoke maybe you missed something, re read the drivers manual scan posted earlier particularly the section on "warming up".

Like this!;

" Research has proved that the practice of warming up an engine by allowing it to idle slowly is definitely harmful,
and far less damage is done by driving the car straight on to the road from cold than letting the engine idle slowly in the garage."

I think that adequately answers Rogers original question and puts the problem in the correct perspective. Sometimes authors trying to help man understand, say too much and confuse others. Of course he could have just said "NO".---Regards-- Keoke

I was responding to the part in the owners manual about driving at constant low speed in high gear to warm up, did not say it wasn't good, said it was hard to do, at least around where I live.

It looks like you have been around forums enough to see that you know these things take twists and turns, beyond the original question, see "marvel mystery oil" that doesn't answer the original question either, but you didn't comment on that.

I am not going to comment further, it is not worth pursuing.



As you said to me, please read and think before you post.

 

[Keoke]

OH! You better go back and read Marvel Mystery Oil TOO!---Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[glemon]

Boy this place it more fun than a barrel of monkeys

 

[Keoke]

Boy this place it more fun than a barrel of monkeys

-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif


Yep! Monkey see monkey Do!---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

[MarkA]

But...

Marvel Mystery Oil is such a great topic to go sideways with. Besides, I'm Italian! We get off the subject as the normal part of any conservation. That's what keeps the dinner table so interesting... (big smile on my face!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

If the the people who are misbehavin' on the BCF all go to the corner, there'll be alot more of the free beer at the Bar for the rest of us.

 

[Keoke]

If the the people who are misbehavin' on the BCF all go to the corner, there'll be alot more of the free beer at the Bar for the rest of us.

Patric, I have been trying to get them to behave!---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/angel.gif

 

[PeterB]

GregW,

Do you have any simular instructions on how to use the overdrive? With clutch or without, at what speed, etc... As you might guess I have never be able to drive my car yet....

Thanks

 

[Keoke]

Hi Peter, Any of the repair manuals will give a detailed operational overview of the overdrive. Similarly, the owners handbook will guide you as to the proper methods for using it.

There is no need to use the clutch when activating or deactivating the overdrive. The overdrive has an accumulator included that insures a smooth transition in both directions.

The overdrive once engaged remains engaged until the dash switch is turned off and the gas pedal is momentarily depressed.

Operation of the unit at speeds less than ~ 30MPH is to be avoided so that lugging of the engine does not occur.---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[anthony7777]

thanks shg! - keoke, godda use the boys room can i come out now? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif