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Engine test stand

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tonyk

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Hi. Engine rebuild nearing completion. I was wondering if it's feasible to test the engine out, run in the cam, check for leaks and sort out explosive or non starting problems etc on a simple rig. Engine is currently mounted on a couple of sturdy wood "saw horses" - made many years ago by a professional joiner (mainly constructed from 2"x4").

I've seen such testing rigs mentioned from time to time but I can't find anything useful in the archives. I know you have to fit up water feed - radiator or nrunning water from a tap, gauges starter etc.

Anyone any advice, plans that would help. Is it feasible to do this in the garage?
 
I think it is a great idea. If you give it a google, you will see many well thought out (and some not so well thought out) ways people have done this.
 
An old chassis works pretty well for a test stand. Stick a dyno in where the diff goes and make some noise

 
I've seen V8s running on the shop floor before, though gentle blipping of the throttle is recommended!

I don't think running water straight from the tap is such a good idea, as you'll want it to reach and maintain normal operating temperature; a closed circuit (radiator, thermostat and electric fan) would be be preferred, if the engine is going to be run anything longer than a couple of minutes.

With just a little modification, this would've been adequate for starting and running at low (<2000) RPM:
(this is Healey Blue's handiwork, btw; xlnt for shipping some 1100 miles)

IMG_1384.jpg


IMG_1386.jpg


IMG_1399.jpg
 
I made a simple frame and put some casters on it so I can roll it out of the garage to run, while the body is being finished.

Digger

Austin Healey motor stand2.jpg
 
Good idea but I think most people just put back in the car and run it. I did make a temporary "Mule" out of plywood and casters which really came in handy fitting the tranny back in. Most likely I could've ran the engine on the stand but I didn't want to put the manifolds and carbs plus the starter/generator back on then have to take them back off to install the motor back in the car.

resto 3 19 20050002.jpg resto 3 19 20050001.jpg
 
Hi

Thanks for all the replies. Pictures are worth a thousand words - very helpful and I think I've got the idea now.
Unfortunately, when I came to hook up my brand new tubular headers (cast iron original had cracks when I checked them out) neither would fit as the bolt holes were offset on both manifold flanges.

Poor quality control by the supplier and not checked by the merchant, I am getting a replacement set.
 
tonyk said:
Hi

Thanks for all the replies. Pictures are worth a thousand words - very helpful and I think I've got the idea now.
Unfortunately, when I came to hook up my brand new tubular headers (cast iron original had cracks when I checked them out) neither would fit as the bolt holes were offset on both manifold flanges.

Poor quality control by the supplier and not checked by the merchant, I am getting a replacement set.
Click to expand...
I should have photos of our local clubs test stand within a month to post. It has radiator, gauges, etc, dummy trans.
 
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