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Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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Are you sure that you had TDC of the compression/power stroke, and not the exhaust/intake stroke? (both valves closed while the piston traveled up)
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engine swap issues
- Thread starter Salyers890
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Mike, I'll echo Trevors question on that. When #1 is at TDC on a compression stroke, the valves on #4 will be rocking. That is, the intake valve will just be opening, and the exhaust valve will just be closing. At this point, the timing mark on the pulley should be lined up with the TDC pointer on the timing cover. Now is a good time to pull the distributor cap, and verify that the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. Remember, it rotates counter-clockwise.
The throttle cable is held in place by the tension put on it by the throttle return springs, and that's it.
As for the carbs, it sounds like the needles are stuck shut. Pull the float covers off, and see if you can blow through them. If not, try squirting some carb cleaner in the fuel inlet, and see if that frees them up.
I doubt if you were dieseling, with the low compression a 1275 has. (Compared to a diesel, that is.)
Good luck,
Jeff
The throttle cable is held in place by the tension put on it by the throttle return springs, and that's it.
As for the carbs, it sounds like the needles are stuck shut. Pull the float covers off, and see if you can blow through them. If not, try squirting some carb cleaner in the fuel inlet, and see if that frees them up.
I doubt if you were dieseling, with the low compression a 1275 has. (Compared to a diesel, that is.)
Good luck,
Jeff
OP
Salyers890
Senior Member
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i'll give her a look tomorrow, but would i just be better off pulling the radiator out? or looking through the plug holes? or is there some way to see the mark on the crank pulley without pulling the radiator?
Mike
Remove the float bowl lids, check for fuel in the bowls.
(3 screws each and they're off) The floats may be stuck killing the fuel supply.
Also it sounds like your timing is off. Let's hope the dizzy drive is not in a tooth or 2 off.
Position the vacuum advance at about 1:00 o clock. That's a good starting point, if the engine kicks when cranking, back it up a bit to about 12:00.
The throttle cable should feed thru a little nipple on the upper footwell. It should have a ball or solder bead that just slips in the slot on the pedal linkage.
The cable has a 2 step bushing on the end, the thin end *stops* in the nipple.
Frank
Remove the float bowl lids, check for fuel in the bowls.
(3 screws each and they're off) The floats may be stuck killing the fuel supply.
Also it sounds like your timing is off. Let's hope the dizzy drive is not in a tooth or 2 off.
Position the vacuum advance at about 1:00 o clock. That's a good starting point, if the engine kicks when cranking, back it up a bit to about 12:00.
The throttle cable should feed thru a little nipple on the upper footwell. It should have a ball or solder bead that just slips in the slot on the pedal linkage.
The cable has a 2 step bushing on the end, the thin end *stops* in the nipple.
Frank
Mike, look into #1 cylinder through the plug hole, and when #1 piston is at TDC, verify that you are on the compression stroke by looking at the valves on #4.
You can see the little notch on the crank pulley (balancer) from underneath. No need to pull the rad. You may have to find the notch with your fingernail, and then mark it with a paint stick or grease pencil in order to see it, though.
Jeff
You can see the little notch on the crank pulley (balancer) from underneath. No need to pull the rad. You may have to find the notch with your fingernail, and then mark it with a paint stick or grease pencil in order to see it, though.
Jeff