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TR2/3/3A engine removal

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S

sp53

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It has been some time since I pulled the engine out of tr3. I remember there being some difficulty with the engine mounts and the bear plate engine mount bolt binding. The problem if I remember right was the V shape the motor mounts make when the engine is pulled upward. The 2 mounts would pinch the engine in place. This time I was thinking if I removed the whole rubber mount on one side and only took the single nut off the bear plate mount on the other the engine should lift out easier.

The problem is I do not remember. Maybe I can take the single blot off the mounts and the engine will pull up and out, cannot remember. I think once I get the engine up off the mounts, I will unhook the trans and drop it to the ground and pull the engine alone, so not to damage the fire wall. Does this make any sense?

You can come over and help also,
Steve
 
You remember right. If you undo the large, middle bolts, then their angle traps the engine. It's best to undo the 3 small bolts holding each mount to the frame. Then the engine comes right out with the mounts.
 
Your idea of dropping the trans after moving the engine a bit forward does not sound like a good idea to me. Many problems-- separating the trans from the engine leaves you with a difficult time to control the trans. Very tight work space .
Damage to the firewall is not needed as the trans curves down as it moves forward.
Charley
 
I hear you guys and you are correct. I was thinking with this old basket case that has no floors, I might try getting the trans off to make more room and less tilt. I am going to play it by ear and see what happens with the tilt. I have it an old barn that I will have to beef up a little anyway to do the pulling. I do 16 year old stuff once and a while

I bought this car mostly for the tub, plus I could not believe there was a complete car still out there in my prices range. After I started taking it apart, I am having some buyer’s remorse because of the rust, but when spring comes I will feel different, maybe. I always appreciate input.

Thanks steve
 
Remember my "remorse" when I looked at my garage floor after taking apart my TR2...


7JaUa47.jpg


As long as you do a little something every day you can, you'll get there!

I don't think you would be able to drop the tranny downward, as the frame is in the way. Taking the whole unit out the front is simple, so long as you have the apron and radiator out. I've never owned a tilting rig and have had no trouble. It's also an option to leave the engine and tranny in place and remove the tub first...
 
Well I got the engine all unbolted and realized the engine might have compression. It turns over by hand and someone took the trouble to paint it yellow and blue. Looking at the car I believe they stopped driving it years ago because the master cylinder on the brakes did not work.

Anyways, I pulled the rocker bolts off and a couple of the valves stayed open, so I hit them with a mallet and they popped closed with a load pop. I am think I will put rocker shaft back on and the distributor driver gear and put a starter in and do a compression test to see just how shot this engine is. I think I will drain the oil to see if there is water in it or not first. Can anyone think of a reason why that would not work, or do damage to a crank or whatever?

steve
 
I am thinking because I have the rocker shaft off, I can blast some air into the manifolds and push out whatever loose crap is in there then shoot some wd40 on the valve stems and maybe some carb cleaner for the carbon. does that sound correct?


Rather than trying to get the oil pan bolt out which is really stuck, I feel doing the compression test with the old oil in the engine that is about 2 quart high should not be a problem. The odds are the engine is shot or wore out, so I do not want to fiddle too much. Heck I am going to pull the pan anyway if it has compression. I just plan on spinning the engine 10 times for each cylinder to check compression. Any thoughts out there.

I wonder how much I could learn by pulling the pan. with the pan off, I could pop off one of the rod caps and look for cuts and scratches and maybe see the side walls of the cylinders. Heck the car will be a driver. I had this old timer tell me once the main bearings do not usually go out on these engines, and if I wanted to rebuild, pull the pistons out the top and leave the bottom end alone.

steve
 
I would imagine all you will learn is that the compression will be low due to surface rust on the cylinders. Running it would quickly remove any surface rust and likely bring the compression back up, so long as none of the rings are stuck.

Is the plan to rebuild or just get it running?

Oh...also wondered if the pan came 2 quarts high or you are adding an extra 2 quarts? If it came high it may be due to water in the bottom of the pan...in which case it would be best to not turn it over.
 
I might use the motor bottom end depending. I took a piece of wood ripping and used that for a dip stick to get to the bottom of the pan and it was just dirty oil. The dip stick that they had was short like it came out of old tractor, but not a Triumph. The engine was a little stiff when I first tried turning it over, but I babied it and rock it gently and slowly sprayed wd40 do into the plugs. I did this with the rocker assembly off, and the engine gently boke lose and know it spins nicely.

steve
 
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