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Engine Removal Strategy?

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Stick

Stick

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I am ready to pull the engine in my Bugeye, or at least I think I am. This is my first time pulling a motor out of anything bigger than a motorcycle. I have all the lines disconnected from the motor and transmission leaving only the drive shaft and mounting points connected to anything.

I have three primary questions:
1. Do I pull the engine and transmission out as a unit (I would rather do this if possible)
2. Where should I attach and with what to hoist the engine? I have borrowed a lift but will probably need to buy the linkage to connect the motor the the lift arm and don't know where to start. If you are able to go into detail here, great! But be sure to specify if you are giving instructions based on lifting the motor only or the motor and trans as a unit.
3. How the heck do I disconnect the Transmission from the drive shaft? Looking up at the front U Joint I don't really see any disconnect there without dis assembling the U joint and I'd really rather not do that, plus I don't think you can access that place on most cars. Do I just disconnect the drive shaft from the differential and pull it out of the transmission maybe?

Sorry if these seem like silly questions, it was not obvious to me when I was looking it over and I want to be sure I don't end up doing something stupid.

Thanks!
 
BCF Been through it.
Paul
 
Look under "Technical Tips" in the Spridget section of the wiki.

Yes, most people pull the engine and transmission as a unit. Be sure to drain everything, especially the transmission, or you'll have a real mess. The drive shaft will simply fall apart at its spline as the whole thing comes out. To get it back together, though, you'll have to disconnect it at the rear end and attach it to the transmission when you put it all back in.

It's really good if you can use something that allows you to tilt the engine as it comes out. I forget the name of it (I'm not near the garage now) but it allows you to use a 1/2" socket wrench to adjust the tilt. I connected cables to the front and rear of the engine; just used existing screws on the right front and left rear plates. Don't use the valve cover studs as is sometimes suggested; it's easy to bend them.

It's also a good idea to have a shop manual before doing this; it's essential in any case for many of the things you'll be doing once the engine is out.
 
Here's the link to the wiki Steve mentioned.
My observations having done my first engine pull ever on a Midget one year ago.
Most do the engine and gearbox as a unit. Might be different with a BE and the tilt front but if you start with the front end jacked up higher then the rear the angle will help a bit later. I bought a lift from harbor freight for about $100 (on sale) worked fine. I also bought a "load leveler" thing to help tilt the assembly but I think it was meant more to help keep things level then to unlevel them, still it worked fine, with just me, another guy would have helped tremendously though. I did use the valve cover studs but I was very gentle. I also left the drive shaft attached at the rear and just let it slid out of the gear box as the engine/box pulled ahead. Reinstalled by lining up as the unit was moved back, used a rope under it draped up into cabin through shifter hole but another person would be easier, I don't understand what the big problem is here to be honest. Taking the driveshaft apart is much more work then slipping it out, slipping it back in, unless I just lucky.
I had more trouble getting the radiator bolts out and back in but that should be a breeze on a BE with much easier access.
Biggest issue for me was getting enough tilt to angle the motor/gearbox up and out, and then back in, so definately plan for getting tilt. I did it all myself (after reading the manual(s) and researching here. All went well and I had complete success and it was a nice bonding experience for me and the Midget.
 
Easy as 1,2,3,...Do it in one piece, engine & trans! You say you have everything disconnected off the engine, right? Double-check! Disconnect the drive shaft at the rear axle (4 nuts,washers & bolts), drain the trans (no need to drain the engine!). Remove radiator! (do you have the bonnet off? this makes it MUCH easier!). NOTE: Do NOT forget to undo the ground strap!! Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder from the trans (this can be a PITA!) and I like to duct-tape the push rod into the slave to avoid having to bleed later. Disconnect the exhaust. Remove one bolt on ea. side of the trans tunnel (interior) and two bolts to trans mount (underneath).
I use the generator/alternator mounting to attach the lift chain at the front, and then run the chain diagonally across the engine to an upper bell-housing bolt.
Disconnect the motor mounts by removing the mount-to-motor nut on the driver's side and entire motor mount from the frame on the passenger's side. The whole unit is light enough that one can tilt it with a bit of pushing but a load leveler does make it a bit easier!!
 
Remember to disconnect the oil pressure gauge line as well. Don't ask me how I know!
 
ive pulled mine twice...its not toooo bigga deal if u go slow, have a helper, and dont break nothing on the way out.....should only take half a day....zimmmy
 
Make sure you have all the right clutch pieces for whatever combo of engine/gearbox you're putting in. I understand there are difference release bearings, fork arms and all that, it is not nice to discover the wrong combo AFTER it's all back together. fork arm bushing should be looked at for wear and play too, right?
 
Thanks guys! The only trouble I had was with an oil cooler that got in the way, two minuets a wrench and a drip pan and that little problem was gone.

IMG_1602.jpg


IMG_1604.jpg


The offending oil cooler:
IMG_1597.jpg



The tips on the lifting points, balance bar, and what to do with the driveshaft (in this case nothing at all) was especially helpful.

Something tells me pulling the 1275 out of the stock MG will be a bit harder than pulling a stripped down race motor was from a bugeye :smile: That one comes out later this week.
 
Just more bits to take off...that's all, otherwise the same!! :thumbsup:
 
I see the battery tray shows evidence of many engine pulls (being bent up like that!).
 
jvandyke said:
I see the battery tray shows evidence of many engine pulls (being bent up like that!).
Click to expand...

No doubt of that on this car, untold number of engines and engine pulls. I have parts from 14 different engines that came with the car (mounting brackets and valve cover type stuff).

There is an aluminium plate cut to size that sits on top of the battery shelf. Gives a bit more shelf for a full sized battery and looks sharp too. I don't know if they had to put it in for racing or what, its not often I find things added to this car without an explicit purpose.
 
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