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After trying some stop gap measures last season (new oil pump, rebuilt rocker arm assembly, spin on oil filter, etc.), it was time to see about fixing my low oil pressure problem. When the rod bearing caps for # 3 & 4 were removed, nothing showed on the bearings but copper. No white metal at all. So its out with the engine to the machine shop and no Healey to drive for 6 weeks. This is a relatively low mileage engine, but the PO let a head gasket problem go too long, and I think antifreeze got to the bearings. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
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Engine Rebuild time
- Thread starter shorn
- Start date
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GregW
Yoda
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Hi Shorn,
If it’s any consolation, I found the engine rebuild one of the easier projects of my restoration. I bought the head studs and connecting rod bolts from ARP. A little more expensive, but a lot stronger. The head studs have allen heads to help with installation and eventual removal. I figure you’re getting a shopping list together. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
If it’s any consolation, I found the engine rebuild one of the easier projects of my restoration. I bought the head studs and connecting rod bolts from ARP. A little more expensive, but a lot stronger. The head studs have allen heads to help with installation and eventual removal. I figure you’re getting a shopping list together. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif
Skip & Lynne
Jedi Warrior
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I agree my engine was the easiest and least expensvie part of the deal.
BlueRidge1
Jedi Warrior
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Hi Shorn,You may want to have the head magna fluxed to check for cracks and while it's at the machine shop have the valve seats updated for use with unleaded gas, if it hasn't already been done. I went thru a few heads before I found one suited for rebuilding. Bob