• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Engine rebuild questions

Share this page

I

ichthos

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
I feel a little nervous about my engine rebuild. It has been ten years since I rebuilt it (It has sat in my study inside the house during that time.) I already found my head was not torqued correctly when I checked it. At this point I am feel like I need to drop the oil pan and recheck torque values on the piston nuts. I noticed that the crankshaft bolt is supposed to be tightened to 150 ft/lbs. I do not have a torque wrench that goes that high. How do you keep the crankshaft stationary while you tighten the crankshaft bolt? Is there some way to approximate a torque of 150 ft/lb? Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin
 
150 lbs, I'd check that for sure. Nothing I know of is supose to be that high but for the rear end.
 
The main bearing bolts get 60 ft/lbs according to my manual.
 
Mine as well Nelson but is always good for someone to look it up might see for example that head bolts are tightened in a specified sequence.

Piston nuts = Rod caps

Crankshaft bolt = crankshaft caps, front, center, and rear.
 
150 ft/lb!?! That'd snap or strip about ANY fastener on any Spriget engine.

Rod and main cap fasteners? My WAG from memory would be 60ft/lb mains, 45 ft/lb rod caps... but check the spec's for the particular engine.

Kev, where did the 150ft/lb figure come from? Only thing I can think of to come even CLOSE to that would be the front pulley bolt. And that, ISTR, is only around 60.
 
DrEntropy said:
Kev, where did the 150ft/lb figure come from? Only thing I can think of to come even CLOSE to that would be the front pulley bolt. And that, ISTR, is only around 60.
Click to expand...

I think that's the bolt he's referring to, based on the issue of the crank's turning while tightening.
 
Ok, I feel like an idiot. I don't know where I got that number from. It was one of those late nights when I should have walked away and taken a break. After your posts I looked back in my book which states it is 70 ft/lb. I thought there was something wrong when torque values were well below my TR6 in all areas and then 150 ft/lbs there. The head was not that far off when I retorqued it. The head gasket was a piece of garbage though. I have since put in a top of the line Payen gasket, and followed what forum members suggested from an earlier post on torquing. What really got this thing going was that I had been adjusting the valves by turning the engine counterclockwise with a long wrench. I can just use my hand and turn the fan on the TR6, but it was not so easy on the Bug to get my hands in there. By the fourth time I had adjusted the valves (I always check it twice, and this was the second time I did it because of the new head gasket),the crank bolt started to loosen. I figured at 150 pounds I should not have been able to loosen it. 70 ft/lbs- I could loosen by hand. What I did is retighten the crank bolt with the same wrench. My brother was around when I torqued the pistons, and he says he remembers me torqing them so I think I am moving ahead. As soon as I get my hydraulics working, I am going to turn it over and check my oil pressure. Wish me luck. Thanks for your help, Kevin
 
Back
Top