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Engine rebuild question

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HarryL

Jedi Trainee
Offline
This will be my first tr engine rebuild.
Looking for the preferred sequence for the
rebuild. I'm thinking the cylinder sleeves
1st, then the cam followed by the crank.
I know you need to secure the sleeves with bolts
to prevent them from unseating. More concerned with
small particles from the block getting into the cam-crank
components.
Harry
 
First of all you should have the block clean enough so there is no crud to fall off and unseat the fo8 gaskets. I would get the block dipped at a machine shop or engine rebuilder, then get out the wire wheels to clean around the cylinder area. Make sure you measure your fo8 gaskets, and get the top protrusion correct with the liners in place. I myself would not worry about the cam until the block is complete except for the cam. Are you replacing the cam bearings,(I would)?
 
Oh ya replacing the cam bearings!Speaking of fo8 gaskets;
understand that the copper is the preferred way to go.
Any thoughts on a street cam ? Will be having the head upgraded
as well.
 
HarryL said:
Any thoughts on a street cam ?
Click to expand...
You might want to contact Larry Young and see if he has any spares from his first run. Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but if his new race cam is any indication, the street cam should be a real winner.
www.TildenTechnologies.com

I just got mine a few days ago; now I'm going to have to get serious about actually building a motor for it! (Well, maybe as soon as I get a Stag back on the road, anyway.)

Watch out for lifter quality too. Lots of folks are selling lifters with inconsistent quality; you should probably buy from someone who 100% tests them for hardness or else have them tested yourself. I understand the folks at Rocker Arm Specialists can recondition original lifters to be better than the current "new" supply (or test new ones for you).
https://www.rockerarms.com/
 
The lifters I got from Ken Gillanders at British Frame & Engine all had the little dimple from the hardness tester. They also had a drain hole for the oil near the bottom.
 
martx-5 said:
They also had a drain hole for the oil near the bottom.
Click to expand...
Don't recall who said it, but I've read that the oil drain does effectively nothing in operation except weaken the lifter. With the lifter banging up and down many times/second, at many G's, the oil doesn't get a chance to run through the hole before being bounced back into the air.

Some of this stuff really is voodoo instead of science.
 
TR3driver said:
Some of this stuff really is voodoo instead of science.
Click to expand...

Like ZDDP? Just joking guys! Please lets not get that going again! HAHA!
 
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