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TR6 Engine Rebuild kit
- Thread starter gbtr6
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OP
gbtr6
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Well so far, the shop says block is good, no cracks, head good no cracks. Head needs valves, and springs. The cam is bad, block is standard bore and may be fine. I am having them check the bores for taper. They said there isn't much if a ridge so I hope I don't need to bird it out. I need to save a bit.
Looking for for cam suggestions. I had an S-2 cam from British Parts Northwest. It was a 270 degree cam with moderate lift and good overall power. Am leaning towards a bit more aggressive cam. Will probably get Goodparts tappets. Will have head fly cut and it is the bigger exhaust valve head.
Let eft me know what suggestions you have.
Looking for for cam suggestions. I had an S-2 cam from British Parts Northwest. It was a 270 degree cam with moderate lift and good overall power. Am leaning towards a bit more aggressive cam. Will probably get Goodparts tappets. Will have head fly cut and it is the bigger exhaust valve head.
Let eft me know what suggestions you have.
poolboy
Yoda
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There's a bit of a difference between the S2 cam and the BPNW 270 cam.
The S2 is a bit more aggressive if you want to call it that.
I had an S2 and my cam got wiped out too. I'm not saying it was due solely to the cam, but more due to a combination of related things.
I've driven a couple of TR6's with the 270 and the GP2 cams; they were OK, but not THAT much better than the stock 311399 found in the post 72 TR6's
You don't get any bragging rights with the 311399, but I like it.. I like it's range and it's smooth idle.
The S2 is a bit more aggressive if you want to call it that.
I had an S2 and my cam got wiped out too. I'm not saying it was due solely to the cam, but more due to a combination of related things.
I've driven a couple of TR6's with the 270 and the GP2 cams; they were OK, but not THAT much better than the stock 311399 found in the post 72 TR6's
You don't get any bragging rights with the 311399, but I like it.. I like it's range and it's smooth idle.
tomshobby
Yoda
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I understand that the bigger valves are not necessarily a good thing. Apparently they are closer to the side of the chamber wall so the flow around them is some what restricted. When I did my '76 the larger exhaust valves were considered but in the end I stayed with the standard ones in stainless with new exhaust seats. Now with several years and many miles I am glad I did.
I did go with the GP2 cam from Goodparts and have had good luck with it although some have not been as happy with it.
OP
gbtr6
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Have all parts, almost to do the motor. The lower end rebuild kit came and had .020 instead of .030 crank bearings, so I ma awaiting replacement. I have to say the seller, 1882sean was very responsive and even sent the replacement before I sent the wrong ones back. All parts are County brand and look really nice. I have the GP2 cam and followers from Goodparts and am eager to see how it does. The head will have new valves and springs, dual, and a fly cut. I also am awaiting the small end rod bushings. They are not in the rebuild kit. I am going to do a little porting on the manifolds to open them up a bit.
Perry
Perry
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gbtr6
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Well after quite a delay, and 3 wrong bearings being sent, I finally just got a refund for the crank bearings and got them from Moss. The shop has all they need. The head is done. The tri-metal bearings from Moss were King brand so I am pleased. Hope to get the short block back soon and get it back in and running before September so I can at least enjoy some fall driving.
Perry
Perry
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gbtr6
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Got the word on the engine. It's done, but so is my wallet. It came out to $2200, about $500 more than I hoped. But, they did do the head, new valves and springs, fly cut, decked the block, cleaned all balanced, bored .030 over, polish and grid crank, re-assemble. Parts were another $1800. I could have probably popped for a race motor. Now just need to get it in and running in so I can enjoy before winter.
Perry
Perry