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Engine Rear Oil Seal

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now that the leaves are falling from the trees[at least here in connecticut]it won't be long befor we have snow,ya i know bummer,in the down time im plannig to rebuilt the transmissin i.e sinkros,lay shaft,seals,clutch etc,i will also be replacing the rear eng.seal,years ago we would replace these with a common chevy seal with great success,i wish i could remember wich one it was because they never leaked again!i recently purchased a new seal that consists of an aluminum flange that must be properly aligned,drilled and tapped[into the rear of the engine block]this item can be viewed on the 'moss'sight. has anyone used this type of seal?if so are they any good?what if any are the pitfalls of the install etc,are there better ones available.input much appreciated.anthony7777-1963 A.H.3000 MK.II /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

Anthony, have had that chev oil seal fitted to my BN1!, involved some minor machining tho from memory
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

Hi Anthony:
Since the plan is to remove the transmission, it would be possible to install the rear engine (crankshaft) seal “in-situ” with engine installed. The conversion kits offered by MOSS and others are the same.

Installation is straightforward but requires removal of flywheel and rear cover which is not too difficult. The crank flange is actually used as a pilot drilling the four holes into the rear of the engine. These are then tapped for the rear seal conversion flange (aluminum). The only real machining required is in widening the rear cover to accommodate this seal flange. The kit should include a template to outline amount of steel to remove – there are some creative approaches as to how this is done but I would recommend a plasma cutter. Alternatively, the whole lot, including a modified rear plate (core change) could be purchased from British Car Specialist – Stockton, CA.

If you’re curious, request the instruction sheet before purchasing.

Good luck on the transmission rebuild. All parts are available, but insist on quality especially with the syncros (specifically 3&4th). I learned this on my fourth try. I’m now very proficient at removing a trans in under an hour.

BTW the conversion worked, most of the time my Healey could be parked on any driveway without leaving signature drops of oil – but it still manages to weep oil elsewhere.

GONZO
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

I had my rear engine plate milled instead of plasma. It was easier for me since I already had other work going on at the shop. 2 holes get drilled and tapped in the block, the other 2 in the main bearing cap. My kit came with a hollow bolt ( screw threaded all the way /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif) that helps you line up the drill bit. Here’s what the engine plate would look like after modification, courtesy of Dennis Welsh’s website.
136430-plate.jpg
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

that's nice !
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

HI Greg, I think that cut out shape is applicable to the DW rear seal only.Those from other sources utilize a round cut out at the bottom.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

Hi Keoke,
You are of course correct. I bought my rear seal from Moss awhile back and it was the red square one from Dennis Welsh. They changed suppliers at some point, but the part number is still the same. Anthony, don’t listen to me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

gregw,its to late!ive allready cut the rear engine plate exactly as you described,nah just kidding,oh man that keoke aint he sumtin?thanks anyway.anthony7777 1963 bj7 3000 M.K.II. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

gonzo,that was exactly the kind of info i wanted,ive already purchased the seal,but didnt realize the eng.plate would need machining,as for sincros,second gear is the one that gives me trouble,i cant downshift into 2nd.much above 10-12 mph,i will be relacing all of them,thanks this info is extreamly helpfull.anthony7777 1963 bj7 3000 M.K.II /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

peter what you dont know is since we own the same mark your lovely wife has agreed to allow me to do yours first,so ill have the experiance befor i do my own. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

Yep that Keoke is sumpin. But one note of caution ,it is very important in installing this seal that the rear main bearing cap and the back edge of the engine block be in perfect alignment or its gonna leak.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

keoke,as usual,thanks great hint!but replacing all your hardware[fastener]with stainless?please tell us all what its like to be handsome,talented,fomous,and rich! actually i do the same.thanks again! anthony7777 1963 bj7 3000 M.K.II
 
Re: rear eng.oil seal

Hey Breezy, When you do the seal you can get maximum accuracy if you make another Pilot bolt. This allows the first one to remain set inplace while you drill and tap the other three. I also made one more pilot bolt that insured that the tap faithfully followed the pilot hole.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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