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Engine Painting

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I didn't use any primer, just started out with some light coats of paint so it didn't run. Yielded good results for rattle can paint from Moss.
 
Pretty good Bibber, but not good enough IMOP. Stick with the Moss Rattle can "Hardened" paint on the big Healey as suggested by others and you will come out alright- Healey Dave.---Fwiw--Keoke

P.S. Use engine degreasers to clean the block and its parts.
 
No primer needed for the cast iron engine block. Some type of self-etch primer is good for the stamped metal parts (valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, etc.) I used Hirsche engine enamel which comes in a quart can and can be brushed or sprayed. It's a whole lot better than the Moss rattle can paint because I said so and I like to mess with the grey beards around here! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/angel.gif

Actually I've heard one concours judge say he prefers the Moss rattle can because the Hirsche stuff looks too good. Your choice!

Cheers,
John
 
Well Johnny Boy, /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif I don't want to be buying no brushes even if they are the throw away kind or thinners or messing up my spray gun and have to clean it. Consequently, being soooo lazy I choose the Rattle Can every time.

Oh! and watch them names you be calling folks, some don't take kindly to that!---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif


OH! I use them soon as they come off the delivery truck no shakin required.---- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Hey Keoke,

If you're soooo lazy why you shaking that rattle can? Best save those muscles for lifting pints! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif

Cheers,
Johnny Boy /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/troll.gif (self portrait)

p.s. o.k. so you have the shake 'n' bake part down but don't let your 'finger pointing finger' get tuckered or else who you gonna blame? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif
 
Thanks. I will remember to prime the man and timing cover, and maybe also the side covers. I have some self etching primer.
I have both a Hirsche quart and Moss rattle can so I may try some of each for fun just to see how they compare - then dicide on which to use. I was pretty happy with the Moss rattle can paint on the motor mounts. Goes on nice. Looks great.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]and I like to mess with the grey beards around here! [/QUOTE]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Oh! and watch them names you be calling folks, some don't take kindly to that!---Keoke-
[/QUOTE]

Hey Keoke

around these parts that name calling is looked at as a sign of recognition "years of authority from EXPERIENCE"!
 
In regards to engine paint, do the rattle cans have the catalyst in them? I don't think they do? If you want to paint the engine block , I would think you should get some PPG(Is it acrylic enamel?) made up and mix it up with the catalyst. It is my understanding that without the catalyst the enamel will not hold up to engine running temps and start to deteriorate.
The Healey green engine paint is very close to an old GM engine paint called SeaFoam Green. The PO of my car had the engine painted with this color.I purchased a Moss rattle can but the Moss Healey green was ever so slightly off from the Seafoam Green. I took the old oil filler cap to PPG had them match the color in Acrylic enamel(?) and purchased the catalyst and the solvent. I had my valve cover sprayed along with the new oil filler cap and 9 years later the valve cover is still perfect. It will take a wax and looks great.

An interesting note,I purchased 6 Sellers Ohio Special fire tube boilers over the last 7 years and they are painted what looks like Healey Green. Subsequesnt repairs have resulted in touch-up rattle can paint spraying. I asked the service company and they gave me a can. It is made by Yenkin-Majestic from Columbus, Ohio. It is called Magic Spray Enamel.
 
The particulars on the PPG acrylic enamel I mentioned above.

-PPG Delstar Acrylic Enamel (Urethane)
Thyme Green Firemist Metallic: GM/OEM 4901
DAR 2982X

- Delstar DTR 602 Reducer

- Delthane DXR 80; Urethane Hardner

I took the old oil filler cap from my 1964 BJ8 Phase I and the PPG paint dealer matched it up to this code. The PO told me he had the engine painted in what he called GM Seafoam Green.

The Urethane hardner is also called a cross-linker or catalyst. Without the hardner the urethane in the paint goes on kind of like layers that slide over one another. With the hardner the layers of urethane cross link or bond to each other locking up the structure of the polymer and raising the melting point. The higher the melting point the longer the life of an engine enamel versus a two part enamel without the hardner.
 
Hi Jon,

The Hirsch enamel paint is rated to 600 degrees F. Do you know the rating for the PPG Delstar? I'm not saying it wouldn't work but one might have problems on or near the areas of the motor that have the highest heat such as loss of gloss or color turning. Then again, I have been very impressed with the chemical resistance of these types of paint so they may work great.

Another point to consider is PPG will be a more expensive way to go since automotive paints and reducers are very pricey these days. A quart of Hirsch paint is $33.00 and doesn't require any hardeners or special thinners. One should also be aware that paints with hardners have dangerous chemicals so protecting the lungs, skin, eyeballs with a forced air system is recommended.

Here is a link to info on the Hirsch paint for anyone interested:

hirsch FAQ

Cheers,
John
 
John, I used the PPG system because I was basically stuck with going that way. The "Seafoam Green" color by the previous PO is ever so slightly different from the Healey Green so the rattle cans would not do. I touch up my engine yearly and I needed something that would do. I have had success with the PPG Urethane Acrylic Enamel. I bought a quart in 98 and still have most of it. I touch up with a brush so no mist or aerosol and the chemical exposure is minimal. My valve cover was sprayed by a neighbor with the suitable equipment back in 98 and it is glossy and excellent to this day.

John, I worked with isocyanates for 4 years back in the day and yes when working with TDI based sprays you should use protective gear. John remember a lot of these warnings against chemical exposure are based on rats being tested in environments that are comparable to humans breathing high concetrations of vapors over unusually long periods of time. Exercise common sense and remember if you are smelling something it probably is the solvent or diluent flashing and you can detect low PPM levels of solvents by smell.

This Hirsch paint has also got to contain some type of cross linking type of polymer or else, How could it stand up to the temperature? What is the Hirsch engine enamel made of?
 
HealeyDave said:
I was pretty happy with the Moss rattle can paint on the motor mounts.
Click to expand...

With all the particulars about the exact shade, etc. I was wondering, why are your motor mounts painted green? Mine(stock, from the factory) are black!
 
dar100 said:
HealeyDave said:
I was pretty happy with the Moss rattle can paint on the motor mounts.
Click to expand...

With all the particulars about the exact shade, etc. I was wondering, why are your motor mounts painted green? Mine(stock, from the factory) are black!
Click to expand...

-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif------ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonod.gif

Spray man ran out of paint Dar100 and they couldn't wait for him to refill.--Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
dar100 said:
HealeyDave said:
I was pretty happy with the Moss rattle can paint on the motor mounts.
Click to expand...

With all the particulars about the exact shade, etc. I was wondering, why are your motor mounts painted green? Mine(stock, from the factory) are black!
Click to expand...
Don't know about later cars. The BN1, BN2's had the engine mounts, including the rubber, painted engine color. Also the fan belt - if you can believe it.
D
 
jjbank said:
This Hirsch paint has also got to contain some type of cross linking type of polymer or else, How could it stand up to the temperature? What is the Hirsch engine enamel made of?
Click to expand...

I guess you would need to ask them but it has been around for quite a few years (they have been saying 32 years for awhile /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif ) It can be thinned with enamel reducer or even lacquer thinner. They also make/carry the high temp paints for exhaust manifolds, etc and don't require additional hardners.

Cheers,
John
 
Dave Russell said:
With all the particulars about the exact shade, etc. I was wondering, why are your motor mounts painted green? Mine(stock, from the factory) are black!
Click to expand...
Don't know about later cars. The BN1, BN2's had the engine mounts, including the rubber, painted engine color. Also the fan belt - if you can believe it.
D [/quote]

I think the motor mounts and other stamped engine parts/brackets were painted black first (before engine assembly) and then the whole assembled motor was painted green (except for distributor and carbs). I've seen the green factory paint flake off leaving just the black parts at there doesn't appear to be any sanding/prep in between. Then again .. Keoke's 'splaination sounds about right too!
 
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