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Engine paint

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Do we have a source for the proper color engine paint for a Bugeye, you know the awful green.

Moss for spray cans but I would like to brush some on in a few spots.
 
jlaird said:
Do we have a source for the proper color engine paint for a Bugeye, you know the awful green.

Moss for spray cans but I would like to brush some on in a few spots.
Click to expand...


I have always just sprayed it in the cap and dipped my brush.
 
Ordered from POR, thanks Fred, a cap would not do it.
 
Por-15 I understand is very toxic, so use it in a very well ventilated area, or ware a respirator.
Also Por-15 has a very short shelf life when the lid is left off container. I found if you drill a small hole in the corner of the lid, wipe or vacuum metal shavings as you drill. Then take an appropriate corresponding wood or metal screw to screw in to hole. What I do is shack can very well before its use, then let it settle for about an hour then remove the screw and pore the appropriate amount into a throwaway cup to apply from, then replace screw for future use. You can clean brush with lacquer thinner or acetone.

HTH
 
BlueMax said:
Por-15 I understand is very toxic, so use it in a very well ventilated area, or ware a respirator.
Also Por-15 has a very short shelf life when the lid is left off container. I found if you drill a small hole in the corner of the lid, wipe or vacuum metal shavings as you drill. Then take an appropriate corresponding wood or metal screw to screw in to hole. What I do is shack can very well before its use, then let it settle for about an hour then remove the screw and pore the appropriate amount into a throwaway cup to apply from, then replace screw for future use. You can clean brush with lacquer thinner or acetone.

HTH
Click to expand...

POR-15 engine paint is a straight enamel paint, it's not the same as the POR-15 Rust Preventative and doesn't carry the same toxicity warnings as the Rust Preventative. Still, I'd read any precautions on the label.
 
Consider the following as an extension to Rick's comments on POR.

As mentioned, the engine paint is a THICK enamel (NOT the same as regular POR paint). When applying it to cast surfaces, a bristle brush works well right out of the can. However, this will produce unacceptable results on items like valve covers that are smooth. For smooth surfaces, prep like you would for regular aerosol paint application with a quality primer, fine sanding, and tacking prior to top coating. Do NOT use POR solvent to thin the enamel. Use regular mineral spirits from the hardware store. You will have to judge how much thinning to do based on your preferences and equipment but as much as 50% would not be unusual. Then airbrush the paint onto the surface (a cheap single-action air brush from some place like Harbor Freight will be fine). Wait a while for the mineral spirits to flash and then apply a second coat before the first coat completely dries. If you apply too soon, the paint may run. Apply too late when the first coat is too dry and the second coat will lift the first coat. If you are unhappy with the top coat, wait several days and use mild rubbing compound or glazing compound to buff the surface to the level of gloss you want.
 
Thanks for that Doug, yep I knew it was not regular POR. I have some casting that needs redone. For stuff smooth like valve cover I think I will continue to use spray can if it matches well.

With the brush on I can clean up bad spots etc with out removeing the engine. After all removing it 7 times is enough.
 
I find these Preval sprayers (available at Home Despot, etc) to be really good for turning paint in a can to an aerosol. You just need to have the right thinner to reduce it enough to make it sprayable:

PRE267.jpg
 
Oh thats slick, Rick. I didn't know those Preval spayer's existed! Looks a lot simpler than dirtying up a spray gun.

Kurt.
 
The Preval sprayers are nice but the cost of using them adds up. An alternative if you have an air compressor is the Badger-250 single-action air brush that has been around for quite a while. Along with it buy the 1/4" NPT adapter so you can connect it to your air compressor instead of using cans of propellant. The best prices I have seen are on Amazon. Your initial investment will be around $25. You'll find lots of uses for it beyond car work. There are also clones of the cheap Badger air brush on eBay that will cost less. The only disadvantage to them is that they will not accept the more common Badger brand paint jars. That doesn't matter in most circumstances.
 
I have improvised similar methods to refill cans with air. It never occurred to me to use a tire valve to make the connection. Thanks for posting the link!
 
So after drilling the hole stick your air gun kinda in the hole and blow for a bit, do several times over the period of a day. All clean. Remember the kind of can he uses only contains a very volatile liquid, carb cleaner.
 
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