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Engine Oil, Castrol 20/50

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Ditto on the Castrol 20/50. There are some excellent past posts on the non-virtues of synthetics so I stick with tried-and-true and change it often.

Bill
 
I've always used Castrol 20/50 in my TR4 (and TR6 before that) with no problems. There may be better (and more expensive) stuff out there, but considering how few miles I put on my car between oil changes, I'm not sure it's worth it.
 
Me too, though some have had problems which they attribute to Castrol -- e.g. sticking oil pressure bypass valve. I'm not concerned enough to not use Castrol, just something to bear in mind.
 
Hmmm.. Ok, I guess I'm the black sheep here. I use synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Knock on wood, I've never had any internal problems with any motor that used it... I know when I switched to synthetic on my Disco, everyone on a Land Rover board I frequent said "oh it will leak"... "Oh it's overkill"... and on and on, but it doesn't leak and the lifter clatter that always annoyed me on cold starts went away.

Sythetic oil is superior in almost every way.. it resists heat better, it doesn't turn to sludge and it lasts longer. I think it's worth putting in the car that I pamper the most.
 
I agree on synthetics, but I use Castrol 20/50 conventional oil in my TR6. The engine is older, and I think decoking 30 year old rings would make it use more oil. After a rebuild, it will get synthetic. I've switched over hundreds of cars, a few leaked more oil than before from existing leaks, but none developed new leaks. Three cars started consuming oil at an alarming rate (with no smoke), consumption problems went away when I went back to conventional.
 
I've used and will continue to use Valvoline 20W50 non-synthetic oil in my TR4 motor (currently slated for a rebuild after about 120,000 miles) and plan to use Valvoline 20W50 Racing (non-synthetic, non-detergent) in the car's gearbox with overdrive. In the non-OD gearbox and rear end, I use 90W or 85W90 GL4 gear oil, non-synthetic. (Also avoid GL5 gear oil in the gearbox and diff.)

Overall, I've not had good luck with synthetic oils. I've heard they should be avoided in TR gearboxes, especially.
And, I believe you should neverm ever use a synthetic oil in a newly rebuilt engine, at least until well after it's broken in.

Every "modern" car I've used straight synthetic oil in has developed noisy lifters. This occured with both a VW Jetta and a Land Rover. The Jetta also definitely started leaking more oil, never leaked a drop before the change. I couldn't say if the Land Rover leaked more, hard to tell with all its typical power steering fluid leakage! Neither car had particularly high mileage.

I do use semi-synthetic Valvoline in my current Land Rover, but lifter noise definitely increased after I started doing so. Occasionally it clatters briefly when oil is fresh, this lessens and disappears after the oil has been in the car for a while. The car has only about 50,000 miles on it, certainly shouldn't have lifter noises! Previous owner used pure synthetic (16,000 miles) according to some paperwork that was in the glove box.

On the positive side, when I've tried synthetic oils or even semi-synthetic, there has always been a moderate to quite noticible increase in gas mileage.

Alan
 
I use a 50:50 mix of Castrol 20-50 and Rotella-T 10-40. Rotella is a readily available (Wal Mart) oil certified specifically for diesel engine use. It has a robust additive package (moly) to address the higher loads a diesel engine produces that I think our TR engines benefit from. If it came in 20-50, I'd probably use it 100%.
 
Rotella and Delo 400 also have strong detergents, I bet inside of your engine is spotless.
 
Yes, the Chevron Delo & Rotella have excellent detergency as well. When I replaced my thrust washers a couple of years ago, the sump and lower end were very clean. My valve train is surprisingly clean too. I also dose the oil periodically with Auto Rx to dissolve varnish and prevent sludge buildup. I don't ordinarily believe in snake oil meds for engines, but this is one product I believe in.
 
What a great thread! I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild and really appreciate hearing what people use to "keep 'em running", but probably even more interesting is knowing why they use it. Great stuff!
 
Which engine should I use for break- in .will 20w 50 caastrol be fine?

I've been recommended redline 75- 90 NS for my newly rebuilt overdrive gearbox. First time I hear about Valvoline 20W50 racing oil.
 
Ricardo, Use a light oil for break in so your rings seat properly. A 5/30 or, some companies make break-in oil for rebuilds. Not familiar with mileage on triumphs but the older Mercedes run this for 500 miles or so and then change over to a normal weight.
 
I live in an area where the temp never really gets down low enough to require a multi weight, so I have always run straight 30 in all my cars. I use several different types of oil, Mystic if I can get it, because it is good oil and the refinery is in OKC. If I can't get Mystic where I am at, I get either Valvoline or Castroil, which ever is cheaper. I also change my oil every 2000 miles on my cars. If I lived elsewhere in the world, where winter temperatures actually plunged below the 20 degree mark regularly I'd run a 20/50 or a 15/50.
 
Rick mentioned that he mixes dif oils. I always thought that was not rec. due to the differing additive packages. What is the result (viscosity) when you mix diferent viscosity oils? Do we have a Doctor of Earl out there?
 
While we're on the subject of oils, does any one know where to get MolyKote additive anymore.
 
I just changed my oil day before yesterday in the 3...decided on trying Castrol Durablend --part synthetic/part conventional. It was on sale for $1.99 per quart (and with the spin-on oil filter adapter, the TR3 takes a full 6 quarts.) Using 20/50wt.

Prior to this I've used Valvoline 20/50. In my last TR3 I was in Houston, so I used Valvoline 50 Racing oil to combat the heat.
 
For "break in" after an engine rebuild, I used a 10W-30 dino. After 500 miles I put in synthetic - Redline 10W-40. No problemo, and I want the best.

If you have an aftermarket valve cover, be sure to make an entrainment baffle the fits over the take-off. Otherwise oil consumption could be quit high - especially if you have an "external" oil feed line to the valve train.
 
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