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TR2/3/3A Engine mounts
- Thread starter surge57
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GTP1960
Jedi Knight
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I replaced my mounts recently.
I found it easiest to jack the engine up(padded 2x6 under the pan), attach the mounts to the engine and then lower engine & attach the mounts to the frame pads. Rocking and levering as needed.
i did it with the apron & radiator off. Much harder with apron on I imagine.
also be sure to release the tranny mount ( replace it too?) while your working.
I found it easiest to jack the engine up(padded 2x6 under the pan), attach the mounts to the engine and then lower engine & attach the mounts to the frame pads. Rocking and levering as needed.
i did it with the apron & radiator off. Much harder with apron on I imagine.
also be sure to release the tranny mount ( replace it too?) while your working.
sail
Darth Vader
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I wiggled mine in one side at a time and then put the nuts on. Radiator hose's off and it's easy to go too high and bend the accelerator link rod over the gearbox. Might as well do the rear, you know, while your at it. I did that from under the car and would not do that, just take off the tunnel.
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I too replaced mine this past Fall with the engine in the car. I had the apron off and radiator out when I did this and as others have stated, jacked up each side of the engine and rocked it to have it fall in place. There are several threads in the forum on this subject, which gave me the courage to do it :-D
GTP1960
Jedi Knight
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"Since then, TRF says they offer an uprated engine mount. Next time I'll check it out..."
I used these "uprated" mounts (from Moss I think).
In comparison to the old ones, (which may have been original) the new ones are not nearly as durable.
in particular the mounting base plates were about 2/3 the thickness of the originals. They fit just fine, but I don't think the next owners will get 50+ years out of them.
I used these "uprated" mounts (from Moss I think).
In comparison to the old ones, (which may have been original) the new ones are not nearly as durable.
in particular the mounting base plates were about 2/3 the thickness of the originals. They fit just fine, but I don't think the next owners will get 50+ years out of them.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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If you use your (hand) starting crank from time to time you will want to check its alignment once the engine is sitting on the new mounts. You may find a shim or two when you remove the old ones - shims are how you fine tune the engine position so the radiator crank hole lines up nicely with the dog bolt on the crank.
Shim:
Shim: