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Engine Machining Up-date

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Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Engine Machining Update

Just so everyone doesn't think that 2Wrench is having all of the fun, I'll be ready to start soon. I was at the shop today to drop of the oil pan and some shims for behind the crank gear and I got a few shots of my parts.

The head is done. Shaved, cc'd, and all new valves and springs in and set up, along with a nice three angle valve job. Valve guides are cut and new seals are in. Bob made shims for under the new double springs and machined the old collars to fit the new full length spring to prevent it from walking, without causing any coil bind. Proper spring height and pressures are set.

The crankshaft has been cut .010" under and balanced. It will be polished a bit more next week.

The pistons are all matched and balanced.

All new ARP rod bolts and fully reconditioned rods.

There was some surface rust on the manifold side of the block that I didn't want to deal with after assembly, so I asked to put it back in the tank and here it is, ready for machining over the weekend.

If all goes well, the cam bearing journals will be bored out, the deck was be cut and squared, the line boring for the mains and cylinder boring for .030" oversize pistons will happen by Monday. Engine short block assembly will take place and it will be ready by Weds or Thursday to go back to Erik's for final assembly.

For those who wondered (TR6 Bill) about how the engine came out without also removing the trans, Erik says he does it all the time. Taking the trans tunnel cover off makes it easier, but he does it routinely without doing so.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Awesome Paul !!

What are those many pointed fasteners called?
And how do you tighten them?

d
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Dale,

Those are the ARP bolts and that 12 point head is the same as the nuts on my ARP head bolt studs and crankshaft bolts.

It's their trademark, so to speak.

Many have had trouble with the original TR6 bolts after a rebuild, so out they go and in comes the new.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Tinster said:
Awesome Paul !!

What are those many pointed fasteners called?
And how do you tighten them?

d
Click to expand...

ARP like to use those twelve pointed nuts. I got the same with my ARP head stud set for the TR3. A regular twelve point socket fits over them. Of course, I had to go out and buy one, as I have very few twelve point sockets! :crazy:
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

I ~LOVE~ shiny-new engine bits!!!

My heart's all aflutter. :laugh:
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Paul - You have a weight difference of over 7 grams for the con-rods. Why don't you grind a bit off the heavier ones (or have your engine re-builder do it) so they will all be equal. This is a simple way to improve the balance of the engine. When my neighbour re-assembled the engine for my TR3A back in 1988, he did this. Also he matched the weights for the pistons. That's all the balancing we did and for the next 75,000 miles or so, my 4-cylinder engine would idle at 300 RPM without stalling. For the last 24,000 miles it idles a bit higher and a bit irregularly, but I think that has to do with the carbs and I suspect maybe specifically the brass rods for the butterflies in my SU carbs could be worn and letting air get in to alter the richness ratio at idle. But it runs fine and is still very loose and smooth on acceleration.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Don, I think they are going to do that. I think that is the pre balance weights
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Don,

It's still coming along. That is part of the plan. Every part that turns in or on the engine will be balanced. As you see in the picture, the crank was the first on the balancer. The aluminum flywheel, pressure plate, damper, water pump & pulley, etc. all need to be finished.

I may have misstated the rod conditions above when I said they were fully reconditioned. I showed the pics of the bolts and resizing, but he's not completely done yet.

The little note stuck between the rods in here says to match to the piston pins and then balance.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

Paul, ARP offers three levels of connecting rod bolts, kinda like <span style="font-style: italic">good, better, and best</span>. Which did you choose? They are priced accordingly. When I pull my rod bearings, I think I will just go with the <span style="font-style: italic">good.</span>
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

If ya lubed the contact surfaces use the lower (ARP) recommendations.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

I'm judging by the price that these are the best. Torque settings will apply with the ARP lube specs, not the 30W oil, since we're using ARP lube for the build.

Yeah, it's too darn confusing, but the machinist builds mega HP engines using those ARP specs along with their Moly Lube, so I gotta trust his judgment.

And Bill, he did have to do some machining to the rods to install these. It just wasn't a drop in deal. Sorry, but I don't have the exact details, but I think that he took pics of it for me as part of the documentation package.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

The shoulder'd bolts would need a relief cut at the rod ends is my WAG.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

I'm sorry that I don't have the details, but I forgot to ask today. I just didn't want anyone to think it was just a simple swap.

ARP should be able to tell you exactly what they need. I do expect that my aluminum flywheel will need some tweaking for the ARP bolts that I got for that as well.
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

What cam are you going to use, and what compression ratio? What will you set the timing at, and what will total advance be? Whose lifters did you use? Thanks
 
Re: Engine Machining Update

That looks pretty awesome Paul. I was over at the Erik's shop Thursday morning to talk some more about what I want done with my TR3. He said that might send my engine out to the same shop where your having you work done. Your engines looking great! Maybe the next time I stop at Erik's shop I'll get a chance to see that beautiful engine being put into your car. :thumbsup:
 
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