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Engine machining in progress

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2wrench

2wrench

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Well, just to let you all know I really do have an
engine rebuild in progress, here is a picture from the
machine shop:

P1010025-6.jpg


I try to stay away, but snapped this when I delivered
the damper for rebuild/balancing.
 
Cool photo 2!!

Is that the top or bottom side of your engine?
I've never seen one apart.

thanks,

d
 
2W,

Nice cook and clean. Looks like the cylinders are done. Line bore done or in your future?
 
Paul, don't know about line boring. He's turned the
crank. I'll tell ya, I feel like I don't want to ask.
Seems everytime I open my mouth, costs me another
$150.

I'm thinking it best to shut up and let him finish.
 
2W,

Just remember, it's much cheaper now than when it's back in the car and you "wish" that you had done it. Actually, line boring and balancing are not all that bad (when it's at the shop all torn down)and the benefits are worth the investment IMHO.
 
Depends upon which line bore... They should automatically check the crank and the crank journals, line boring those if needed. Machine shops that I have dealt with have all done that at least.

Line boring for cam bearings is another bag of worms. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Unless it was blown up before, or you're building a race motor, I wouldn't worry about having the main bearings line bored. Way too much money for extremely minimal benefit, IMO. If it wasn't within a gnat's behind already, it would have spun a bearing before.
 
The machine shops that I have used in the past, that did this as a matter of course, built primarily race engines. So maybe that explains it. Also, they would only line bore the main journals if they found something out of kilter. Better to have measured and not need it then to not have measured and be bit by it. It can also tell you if your crank is still as straight as it should be. Which is possible, though not overly common, with the big, heavy TR6 crank riding in only four journals.

In my experience the line boring of the main journals was actually pretty inexpensive at these shops. Line boring the block for the cam bearings was another story though.
 
I meant for the crank. Cam bearing bore will be between $375-$425 here in NE.
 
Evdently, from discussion with machinist, line honing
was all that was necessary, as it was not that far out
of spec....and he has alredy done that. So I think
it's cool.
 
2W,

That is an honest shop and you just saved money.

I just got off of the phone with the machinist for my new project. I'm going to deliver the engine to him in pieces next Weds. Everything is apart and there is no major issues. The crank can be cut to .010" under and the cylinder bores are true and there is no issues with the walls. I will be going .020" over with the new pistons.

One other point of interest. I spoke to him about the deck resurfacing and the fact that I had a relief around the cylinders as this is a later block. It appears to be about .007-.008" deep and he will probably have to remove that much to level the deck and true the block. He has a machine setup for cutting those deeper prior to the decking that will allow for the later gasket to be used, if we feel all of it is necessary.

I don't know whether this was an issue for you or not, but thought that I would mention it while it's there.

EDIT: I asked if I could have a set of pictures of all of the machining operations and he said "no problem." That's one of the few times that I've gotten that answer.
 
Paul, I kinda wonder about that cost of boring for the cam bearings. Sounds high to me. I took mine, back in 87 or so, to a truck machine shop in SoCal(Riverside area) and they bored it, I brought them the bearings for 75.... I know inflation has gone up, but still anything over 200 would have me searching out machine shops. A lot of auto machine shops don't have the large heavymachining for line boring, so they charge more to set up what they've got to do a line bore.....

HTH
 
Paul: Seems as though you are actually catching up
with me on this engine rebuild thing. I couldn't
have wished for better.

I am anticipating you'll be creating a great "how to"
resource with great photos, as you have in the past.
For this, as well as all others, I might add, I am
grateful.

The "recesses" around the cylinders in the top of the
block have been reduced from surfacing on mine as
well. Me and machinist discussed this. He told me
he could put them back in, if I wanted him to.
I asked him to do this, as I thought it was an
answer to a problem with head gaskets going and,
therefore, maybe best to have there. I never gave
a thought for cost or labor necessary.

I was told that this machine shop is good as well because
they principally work on big diesel engines and their
equipment is large in size and powerful....great for
delivering precise work.

All in all, it seems to become somewhat more apparent
that I am in good hands. Just dealing with the
unknown is what has me a bit uneasy. Kinda like I
imagine Christopher Columbus might have felt as he
sailed thinking there is a chance he is making a big
mistake...the earth could really be flat!

Well, as I sail off into the sunset, we will see.
 
Ron,

That was the price average from three shops. One still hasn't quoted yet, but I expect the same. Two others declined to quote, so I took them off of the list. The shop that I'm taking it to does racing engines and has in in house dyno for up to 2,000HP engines. He said that the boring will be a slow process and that is where the money is for the cam bearings. His line bore pricing was slightly lower than two others and the same as one. The rest of his prices are competitive with shops in MA and CT.

This is a state of the art shop and I've seen some of his engine builds. They are perfect and he takes no shortcuts.

https://www.masonsracing.com/index.htm
 
From your description, shop sounds like one to invest with your motor. Did I say "motor"?... Boy, it's been a long day.

Should have said engine.

Aloha
 
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