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Engine is in!

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JimLaney said:
BTW David, that connection panel looks like a great idea. Do you have any drawing for it that you can share? It seems like a great way to trouble shoot the electrical system.
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I do have a full set of drawings for my wiring harness. They are mostly up-to-date, but need some work. I will post them on my blog when complete. Let me know if you need something soon. If I was going to do it over again, I think I would buy a pre-fab harness and modify it to meet my needs. My big interconnect panel is convenient for troubleshooting but is also big and ugly. The biggest advantage of the prefab harness is all the color coded wires. I would never do all black again.
 
David_Doan said:
Its a group 35. About $75 at Costco

IMG_0757.jpg
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Nice touch with the rot-proof plastic (or equivalent) battery tray. I take it no heating/ventilation unit going in.
 
David
Just my 2 cents. As it does not appear that you are installing a heater (Texas after all) you have blanked off the rear water connection on the head.
The only issue there is that it cuts down on the circulation around #4 cylinder. I always ran a separate line from the rear outlet back to the pump outlet side radiator hose.
It improves the coolant flow and prevents a hot spot around #4.
 
Deleted heater. I also removed and filled all the holes for the snaps and related hardware for the top. It is purely a roadster.

Iā€™ve read mixed opinions about the blanking plate for the heater valve. My engine is just a stock 948 with a wore out smooth-case transmission. Iā€™m not going to be racing, just cruising in the neighborhood and on 2 lanes.
 
Joe Schlosser said:
David
The only issue there is that it cuts down on the circulation around #4 cylinder. I always ran a separate line from the rear outlet back to the pump outlet side radiator hose. It improves the coolant flow and prevents a hot spot around #4.
Click to expand...

Makes a lot of sense (and certainly easy to do).
 
Turn the heater valve 180 degrees and easy to connect to it appears on Bugsy. Thatā€™s my plan. If I want heater back for those ā€œcoldā€ FL days and nights, simple to reverse.
 
Jim
If you are going to install a heater (cold in Florida??) the outlet from the heater just goes back to the Lower rad hose, no need to turn the Outlet valve on the head.
I always keep the heater valve open and just close the ducts and keep the fan off. The extra cooling through the heater never hurt.
My BE was my daily driver from 1967-1970 and again 1974-1980.
Cold NY winters and hot summers. The only change was to open the vents and turn on the fan in winter.
 
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