• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Engine is in!

Share this page

D

David_Doan

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Last night I worked late and got the gas tank, fuel line, fuel pump, and engine/tranny installed. I wanted to install the engine completely assembled. This requires a steep angle to clear the radiator posts. It all went pretty smooth except for the driver’s side motor mount. Tight clearance with the timing chain cover required that the lower nut be put on 1st. Also had to remove the alternator bracket to tighten the passenger side motor mount.


Last weekend I fully assembled the motor and tranny including setting the timing to about 10 degrees. Hopefully this will prevent a “reality show moment” of the distributor being installed 180 degrees out.

IMG_0716.jpg


IMG_0725.jpg


IMG_0730.jpg


IMG_0731.jpg


IMG_0733.jpg


More pics in my blog
 
That's got to feel good.
 
What are all the electronics on the passenger footwell
 
Joe Schlosser said:
What are all the electronics on the passenger footwell
Click to expand...

That's basically an interconnect panel with relays to drive each circuit (Headlights, Ignition, horn, etc). My goal was to be able to troubleshoot without laying upside down looking under the dash. The top row is primarily connections to the dash, the bottom row is connections to the car. It came out bigger than desired, but the basic 5 pin relays are a lot cheaper than almost anything else unless you make a printed circuit board. The terminal strips also provide a test for everything.

IMG_06871.jpg
 
Expoxy garage floor and carpeted shop! Me like.
 
Boink said:
Expoxy garage floor and carpeted shop! Me like.
Click to expand...

My wife wanted to downsize... One of my requirements was a 3 car garage. Smaller house, bigger garage - Win Win.

I had a small time window where I owned both houses and was able to get the garage floor painted. It’s much nicer to work on than bare concrete.
 
So David, What type of camera are you using? Lens
 
David,
What brand of epoxy did you use? I’ll be coating my shop floor in the next couple of weeks and I want something that’s durable.
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut,

You've Got an advantage with a floor that’s never seen a LBC self oiling chassis before. Even though power washed, parking Bugsy in garage 3 weeks after being painted, paint stuck to tires in one spot and lifted. Stuff was a 2 part epoxy running $95 a gallon.
 
Jim,
You are so right! I’ve got 1200 sq ft to paint/coat and I want to do it right the first time. Once I hear from a David I’ll research the product he used and see if it’s readily available locally.
Thanks, Rut
 
Due to timing, I paid someone to do mine (same guy that was putting wood floors in our house). He used the Rustoleum epoxy from Lowes or Home depot. I think the key is to properly prep the floor. You can acid etch or mechanically etch. He used what looked like a 9" angle grinder with a vacuum attachment. I have had zero lifting. The are a couple places where the epoxy was a little thin and aggressive pressure washer use showed some concrete. Overall it it is very tough stuff. My wife and kids have spilled a gallon of latex paint and quart can of oil stain with no issues cleaning up. Dried rustoleum spray paint even comes off with the pressure washer (big one).

If I was going to do it again, I would do 2 coats of color and a coat of clear. mine was only one coat of color.
 
David,
Thanks for the info. The floor is new concrete and will be thoroughly cleaned and dried before the epoxy is applied and 2 coats will be applied.
Thanks, Rut
 
Here's my epoxy horror story. In 1995 I had a new garage built. I used the Rustoleum epoxy and purchased it through W.W. Grainger. My garage measures about 490 sq ft. It looked like one bucket would do it if I was careful. I didn't prep the floor since it had no stains or old finish on it. I carefully rolled it on and stretched the paint as far as could until I only had a bare spot measuring 2' x 3' by the side door. I thought "no big deal" and bought another bucket. I figured I'd hit the bare spot and put an extra coat over the rest of the floor. When I checked the following day, the spot by the door was a totally different shade of gray and I could see streaks on the rest of the floor. So I let everything totally dry and applied another bucket overall. Unfortunately while I was rolling it on, the weather suddenly changed. The winds shifted and a storm blew through the area. There was a sudden drop in temperature that night. I was horrified to see that the latest coat didn't cure properly and a left a powdery substance on the surface and the gray looked cloudy. I later applied a fourth bucket and got a good result that has never lifted. I should have left it to the professionals for all the work and money I put into that.
 
I noticed in your blog that you bought a new battery at Costco. Can you tell me what battery you bought? I need to get one for my 65 Mk III and I need to test some subsystems before assembly so I thought I'd go ahead and get the one I can use later.
 
BTW David, that connection panel looks like a great idea. Do you have any drawing for it that you can share? It seems like a great way to trouble shoot the electrical system.
 
It is if you use British Wiring Color Codes. David labeled each wire end with a sealed wiring label on each end of the all black wiring harness.i opted to buy a Customized Harness with extra wire runs and relays incorporated into the harness from British Wiring and built in UK by AutoSparks. On the lust of future projects when I pull the engine and harness for painting, post FL move.
 
Back
Top