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Engine installation Latest

Lin

Jedi Knight
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Engine installation up-date

OK gang, advice needed again. Here is an update in the saga of the trial installation of my engine (not rebuilt yet, it is the last thing I will do, so sorry for the ugly pix). Remember I have a Jule frame that I am generally very pleased with, but I am suspecting that the motor mount towers are welded slightly off and high. I will measure more precisely when I pull the engine out.

You will recall that I had encountered two problems in my trial fitting. First, the motor was sitting too high and second I was having much too hard of a time getting the motor mount bracket bolts to line up with the threaded holes in the motor mount towers. Making me worry about messing up a nice paint job later when I do final installation.

I extended the slots in the base of the motor mount bracket slightly and solved the problem of the brackets fitting. No problem now.

To address the height problem, several of you suspected - as I did- that my new rubber buffers from AH Spares were not exact replicas of the originals. So, I took them out and reinstalled my original rubber buffers that were still in decent shape. That may have helped very slightly, but the motor is still too high I fear.

I am switching to BJ8 HD8 carbs for my car and I am told that the bottom of the rear carb fouls the diagonal brace from the firewall to the frame, if it is not relieved. BJ8 frames have a curved notch taken out of the brace to accommodate this problem. When I install my intake manifold and carbs, the rear carb bottom does not hit the brace (close but not quite) which is one more factor leading to my conclusion that the engine is not sitting low enough.

In the attachment I put a level across the three round flats on the intake manifold. I have a 1/2" drop from the front to the rear round flat. Is any one able to confirm if this should be or not?

I really don't see anything else to do at this point other than to pull the motor and measure the towers. If they are too high, then what? Cut them off and start over. Replacement measurements and final location for welding would seem to be tricky without a jig.

Thoughts about my predicament? Frustrated but still having fun!

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 

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Re: Engine installation up-date

Lin:

Since you're going through the trouble of mock-up install(s) of the engine and carbs,it may be advisable to consider the carb linkage at this time. This should help establish how the engine sits relative to body. If the carb linkage acuating rod, which connects from the manifold to body, is not straight and binds, then something needs correcting. Also the engine damper should sit lower than the front crossmember and have about 1 to 1.5 in. of clearance. Just sharing some ideas. Good Luck. GONZO
 
Re: Engine installation up-date

Hi Gonzo,
Thanks for the response. I am using a cable for my throttle control rather than the original linkage. In fact the linkage rods are not even in the car to line up. The bottom of the ctank pully is approximately 1" from the frame rail. But remember, I have a 60 BT7, so the pully/damper mechanism is different than later cars. I would love it if someone had a comaparable measurement for me on an early 3000 car.

Thanks again. Good thoughts.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 
Re: Engine installation up-date

OK , now you have me worried. I am going to install a powerplant in a Jule frame BJ7 in about six weeks. About thirty holes were missing and luckily there are three parts cars within fifty feet to check measurements but I did not check the front engine mount area. The engine almost has to sit a little higher because of the thicker frame . My guess is the car will weigh 60-80 pounds more than original because of all of the extra metal.

Alan T
 
Re: Engine installation up-date

Yes, and locating all those holes properly was a pain. Fortunately, helpful folks like John Loftus sent me some good measurements.

Lin Rose
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 
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