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engine hoist
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Randy Forbes
Yoda
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I have one that I've used for a (literal) ton of other projects, including a milling machine that weighs in excess of the Healey engine.
It's decent enough, and even the hydraulics are still holding up (leak-free) after several years. I would buy another one__if I needed to.
It's decent enough, and even the hydraulics are still holding up (leak-free) after several years. I would buy another one__if I needed to.
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I didn't get mine from Horrible Freight, but mine looks like it rolled out of the same factory:
Works just fine, but you'll hold your breath every time you have a huge lump of cast iron swinging over that aluminum shroud:
Couple of HF tips: Whenever I want to check out a potential purchase I go to the "Harbor Freight Pass/Fail Thread" on the Garage Journal: https://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27192 If you register on the site, you can use the thread tools to search the individual thread and find the skinny on whatever you might want to buy.
Also, every issue of Hot Rod and Car Craft and probably a whole bunch of other car mags contain a big HF ad with a 20% off coupon every month. Subscriptions are cheap at about 10 bucks a year or you can buy one on the stand when you're going to make a big HF purchase and save yourself some dough.
Works just fine, but you'll hold your breath every time you have a huge lump of cast iron swinging over that aluminum shroud:
Couple of HF tips: Whenever I want to check out a potential purchase I go to the "Harbor Freight Pass/Fail Thread" on the Garage Journal: https://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27192 If you register on the site, you can use the thread tools to search the individual thread and find the skinny on whatever you might want to buy.
Also, every issue of Hot Rod and Car Craft and probably a whole bunch of other car mags contain a big HF ad with a 20% off coupon every month. Subscriptions are cheap at about 10 bucks a year or you can buy one on the stand when you're going to make a big HF purchase and save yourself some dough.
There is also a tilt for the engine available. It does work but sheds particles of metal. So it you use it, tape up any open holes in the engine.
I also jack up the car about a foot off the ground so you can get the angle of the engine and transmission in the hole and then level out. Take it slow and it works.
Jerry
I also jack up the car about a foot off the ground so you can get the angle of the engine and transmission in the hole and then level out. Take it slow and it works.
Jerry
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I Tee, I bought another brand last year but after reviewing the different ones and there spec I think they were all made at the same factory. But mine was a 2-ton hoist. I had the boom all the way extended and that is good for 1000 lbs. The Healey engine and trans together weigh about 730 lbs. I also recommend a leveling device. I used one and I had the device cranked to the max down angle once I started the pick. The engine came out just like butter. No hang ups are banging around. I used the chains on the leveling device and attached the chains to holes in the side of the block so that the pick was on a horizontal bolt instead of the heads (vertical bolt).
Good Luck, Dave.
Good Luck, Dave.
Hi
Quick question to "vette". Which holes in the side of the block do you use?
I used the chains on the leveling device and attached the chains to holes in the side of the block so that the pick was on a horizontal bolt instead of the heads (vertical bolt).
If the engine mounts are attached it would be impossible to mount the metal monster. I don't fancy using the various oil gallery holes.But certainly such would give welcome extra lifting height. ( Smashed a ceiling fitting in the garage getting the engine out).
Thanks AJK
Quick question to "vette". Which holes in the side of the block do you use?
I used the chains on the leveling device and attached the chains to holes in the side of the block so that the pick was on a horizontal bolt instead of the heads (vertical bolt).
If the engine mounts are attached it would be impossible to mount the metal monster. I don't fancy using the various oil gallery holes.But certainly such would give welcome extra lifting height. ( Smashed a ceiling fitting in the garage getting the engine out).
Thanks AJK
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Hi TK, I hope these 2 pics came thru. Upon looking at my pics I realized that I used a bolt hole on the right side front engine plate and at the rear starter bolt. I did use 2 head bolts on the left side of the engine. You'll also see that I used 4 "L" brakets. By putting a bolt thru two "L" brackets I was able to adjust the possible tilt of the engine from left to right. I suppose if the pics don't come out, what I said probably won't make much sense. Here Goes.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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The factory used the rockershaft bolts, and so do I.
Puting a vertical load on a horizontal bolt just doesn't sound like a good idea to me; best to put the load in the direction the fastener is engineered for.
It *might* be a stretch to say I've done a hundred (<100) Healey engines this way, but I've done an awful lot of them (similar fixture used for MGB & Spridgets__of which I've probably exceeded 100). I've never broken nor stripped a fastener, nor have I ever lost an engine or engine/xmsn combination.
Puting a vertical load on a horizontal bolt just doesn't sound like a good idea to me; best to put the load in the direction the fastener is engineered for.
It *might* be a stretch to say I've done a hundred (<100) Healey engines this way, but I've done an awful lot of them (similar fixture used for MGB & Spridgets__of which I've probably exceeded 100). I've never broken nor stripped a fastener, nor have I ever lost an engine or engine/xmsn combination.
Hi vette.
Thanks for the reply. I see what you mean now. Both front and rear engine plates are off mine at the moment, so I couldn't see what you meant.
The reason I'm asking is because of limited headroom in my garage. I used the head studs to remove the engine ( as in pic2)and then rolled the car back( sump off and gearbox separate).
I want to try and put it back with the gearbox attached. I've been thinking I might have to take the wheels off and lower the front end to clear the shroud. That will be a right performance!
Thanks for the reply. I see what you mean now. Both front and rear engine plates are off mine at the moment, so I couldn't see what you meant.
The reason I'm asking is because of limited headroom in my garage. I used the head studs to remove the engine ( as in pic2)and then rolled the car back( sump off and gearbox separate).
I want to try and put it back with the gearbox attached. I've been thinking I might have to take the wheels off and lower the front end to clear the shroud. That will be a right performance!
John Kuzman
Jedi Trainee
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Randy -
What thickness is your lift attachment? Is it just a hunk of 2" angle iron? Thanks.
What thickness is your lift attachment? Is it just a hunk of 2" angle iron? Thanks.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Yes, if I had to guess, I'd say it is 3/16" thick; nothing special, just something I had laying around.John Kuzman said:
I think that 1/8" thick wouldn't be strong enough (I could be wrong...) and 1/4" wouldn't leave much threads to get the nuts on.
I put all those holes in it to grab different angles, but seems I've always used the center hole, regardless of engine alone or eng/xmsn combinations.
I don't recommend using the head studs (at least for a new engine going in) because you'll *risk* blowing the torque job on the head gasket. Pulling an engine out for a rebuild: who cares?!
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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As for those engine leveling devices, while I've never used one, I see their attraction.
As with ANY threaded rod under load, GREASE THE %^&$ THING!!
There are some specific tools I use for pulling out HUNDREDS of BMW suspension bushings, and I've seen ametuers barely make the tool last through two (<2) jobs because they don't grease the bolt.
Every electrician knows this, because of his Greenlee knock-out punch set :wink:
I had to laugh watching an episode of "OverHaulin" last night, when a burly guy was strggling trying to turn the crank on a leveler (572 BBC hanging on it...); while theirs was definitely a cut above HF (with what looked like an enclosed bolt) I guarantee that it had not been greased. Those guys should know better, but then again, you see the clowns using an impact wrench to hammer (expensive) wheels onto Lamborghinis (leaving the owners to wonder why the rotors warp the first time they get them really hot...).
As with ANY threaded rod under load, GREASE THE %^&$ THING!!
There are some specific tools I use for pulling out HUNDREDS of BMW suspension bushings, and I've seen ametuers barely make the tool last through two (<2) jobs because they don't grease the bolt.
Every electrician knows this, because of his Greenlee knock-out punch set :wink:
I had to laugh watching an episode of "OverHaulin" last night, when a burly guy was strggling trying to turn the crank on a leveler (572 BBC hanging on it...); while theirs was definitely a cut above HF (with what looked like an enclosed bolt) I guarantee that it had not been greased. Those guys should know better, but then again, you see the clowns using an impact wrench to hammer (expensive) wheels onto Lamborghinis (leaving the owners to wonder why the rotors warp the first time they get them really hot...).