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i wondered if any of you had pictures of where you located the chains to hoist the engine in the car?
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The two studs on top of the head that hold down the valve cover. That's the factory location, but you also need a way to tilt the engine front to back. This is one type: https://mossmotors.com/austin-heale...are-garage-tools/tools/tilt-lift-engine-hoist, although I use a different one.
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Check my albums , its all in there
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healey nut... interesting way to do it. seems like less stress on the studs that way.
i have a leveler. just was not sure where to run the chain. didn't want to bend a stud with changing the angle and all.
thanks. i believe i may try the studs that hold the valve cover. i think i have two extra if they were to bend.
with as tight as it looks to be, i even wondered if it mught be better to put the tran in first and then the engine. then join them up after they are both in. this way you might be able to just drop the engine pretty much straight down in to the car.
another option was to put the tran and engine together. lift it up with the hoist and change the angle. but since the car is on the lift, maybe raise the car up to the engine. allows me to get under the car and i think i can control the speed of the car going up easier than using the lift to drop the engine down. those things can drop quickly if you are not really careful.
hmmm,
i have a leveler. just was not sure where to run the chain. didn't want to bend a stud with changing the angle and all.
thanks. i believe i may try the studs that hold the valve cover. i think i have two extra if they were to bend.
with as tight as it looks to be, i even wondered if it mught be better to put the tran in first and then the engine. then join them up after they are both in. this way you might be able to just drop the engine pretty much straight down in to the car.
another option was to put the tran and engine together. lift it up with the hoist and change the angle. but since the car is on the lift, maybe raise the car up to the engine. allows me to get under the car and i think i can control the speed of the car going up easier than using the lift to drop the engine down. those things can drop quickly if you are not really careful.
hmmm,
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I used that plate to lift the whole driveline . The angle was too steep but using a combination of my hoist and a cumalong up to a 2X8 across the runways with the car below the hoist ramps I was able to raise lower the hoist and cumalong to create the perfect angle to get the driveline into the engine bay on my own and line everything up without busting a knuckle etc .
It was perfect
It was perfect
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Keith
How have you been? you must have sensed you would be geeting a request for some pictures soon? haha
i thought about using the bolts at the bell housing but worried they might hit the firewall or parts on it while trying to put the engine in.
also wondered about installing the manifolds now. worried about them hitting the brake reservoir. guess if they do not stick out further than the bell housing it is not an issue...
How have you been? you must have sensed you would be geeting a request for some pictures soon? haha
i thought about using the bolts at the bell housing but worried they might hit the firewall or parts on it while trying to put the engine in.
also wondered about installing the manifolds now. worried about them hitting the brake reservoir. guess if they do not stick out further than the bell housing it is not an issue...
Keith_M
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Hi TL,
You have a tri-carb right? You must attach the rear exhaust manifold BEFORE installing the engine. It's pretty much impossible to attach (or detach) after the engine is installed. Note that it is attached already on my engine as we install the engine.
I had no trouble with the chains hitting the firewall, and the four attachment points gave good control while tilting the engine. The initial angle is pretty steep, and it's a very tight fit. You have to move it back, then level and lower it, then move it back, then level and lower it---about 10 times before you can clear the front cowling and lower it into position.
Keith
You have a tri-carb right? You must attach the rear exhaust manifold BEFORE installing the engine. It's pretty much impossible to attach (or detach) after the engine is installed. Note that it is attached already on my engine as we install the engine.
I had no trouble with the chains hitting the firewall, and the four attachment points gave good control while tilting the engine. The initial angle is pretty steep, and it's a very tight fit. You have to move it back, then level and lower it, then move it back, then level and lower it---about 10 times before you can clear the front cowling and lower it into position.
Keith
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keith thanks.
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Keith
after doing a little mock up of everything on that side today, i think it might be best tou put all the manifolds on. got to be hard to get to the lower bolts on the intakes as well. i think i may use the valve cover bolt in the front for lifting. or even put a bolt in the front hole of the front tappet cover. then use the two holes in the bell housing at the rear.
after doing a little mock up of everything on that side today, i think it might be best tou put all the manifolds on. got to be hard to get to the lower bolts on the intakes as well. i think i may use the valve cover bolt in the front for lifting. or even put a bolt in the front hole of the front tappet cover. then use the two holes in the bell housing at the rear.