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Engine breaking down

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Dale,
It's quite possible there is crud in the fuel system. But if you know there is a possibility that the Distributor cap is bad, then wait for that. Also try swapping out the condenser (that capacitor attached to the points) as no power under load is a classic symptom of a bad condenser.
Also like was stated above, inspect the points for condition and gap.
One more thing, Remember that with a car with points, don't leave the ignition on without the car running. If the points happen to be closed while doing that, it's possible to "cook" the coil.
 
Dale, when you removed and re-did your tank what all did you do? was it boiled out, coated with sealer, shaken with rocks or bits of chain? I don't recall right now. That certainly looks like a fine rust sediment in your filter. How is the filter before the pump? Did you replace the metal fuel line too, if not, did you blow/rinse it out?

The igniton parts do sound like they could be part of the no power problem but that sediment could be causing your stumbling. You've been down the sediment road before, now we just have to figure out where all that stuff is coming from.
 
Tinster said:
I've a decent rotor now but a somewhat chewed up
dizzy cap insides.. I ordered a new set from peterC
and they should arrive in a week or so.

I messed with the engine in the garage this afternoon.

Starts fine, warms fine, idles at 800 RPMs with full
glass fuel filter.

I give it some throttle today and it quickly falls apart;
with no change in the gas level in the filter.

If PeterC dizzy cap and rotor don't fix the problem, I am
leaning toward crud in the float bowls. I think I still
remember how to pull carbs.

BLARGH :wall:
d
Click to expand...

Dale, I had an identical problem last week. ONE side of the dizzy cap was chewed up thanks to a worn out dizzy which wobbled all over. When I put my nice new Advanced Distributors rebuilt dizzy on, the engine ran real weird, low power, missing, backfiring, the whole works. Of course when not under load it revs easily. I swapped the cap out for the back up and immediately things started to work properly. Don't waste your time trouble shooting until you have a good cap on the dizzy.
 
Dale
you have a boat right? why dont you put a fuel water separator on the TR, maybe it will catch all that fine crap

good luck
Hondo
 
Tinster said:
sandyGas.jpg
Click to expand...


Looks like rust to me. Inside tank or steel fuel lines. Hadn't you cleaned the tank?
 
TR6BILL said:
Tinster said:
sandyGas.jpg
Click to expand...


Looks like rust to me. Inside tank or steel fuel lines. Hadn't you cleaned the tank?
Click to expand...

Yes Bill,

I installed Jeff Palya rebuilt carbs and intake manifold and then I replaced
100% of the fuel delivery pieces from carbs back to fuel tank. New pump, lines,
filters etc.

I could not find anyone around here who boils fuel tanks so I dumped many bolts,
nuts, chain and nails into the tank. I rotated the tank and then filtered the
outflow. I repeated this process for several hours until no debris or specks
appeared on the filter paper. I then painted the tank exterior and installed
it along with two pre-pump filters, one after pump filter and 2 individual carb
filters.

I'll put on my thinking cap now and see what I come up with.

d

dale
 
Dale - what's it look like inside the tank? I think we all thought you had boiled it out on your barbie!

Here's an interesting thread on tank cleaning. Talks about boiling on the grill, rattling the nuts inside, rinsing out and final inside coatings.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/362578/1

If you didn't do all that, I'm betting your tank is a nice reddish-brown inside - especially down at the bottom. I've heard tell there's a good bit of humidity in PR....

T.
 
Went through the same thing, ending up replacing the tank with an <span style="text-decoration: underline">aluminum</span> one. Then all new steel lines. Still looks like rust to me. Or hot sauce, but you said that Puerto Ricans don't like hot sauce.
 
Dale,
I would have thought that the distributor cap is your problem. Certainly if the problem occurred after you had an issue with the cap and rotor, I would wait until you have replaced the cap before touching anything else.
After that I would be looking to change the points and condenser and then if no joy the coil.
Nick
 
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