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Engine Bay Cleaning?

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MgKid1974

MgKid1974

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Has anyone every cleaned out their engine bay other than sometimes taking a shop vacuum and sucking up any dirt. I dont want a showroom condition engine bay, just one that doesnt look like a hurricane hit it. I guess I could start with repainting the valve cover. I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks.
 
I have used Gunk (I don't like the odor very much) and then a hose. There are other degreasers if oil etc is the problem. Have also used high pressure washers. You should strongly wrap the generator, starter and distributor with plastic covers. Anything else you don't want water in. Fuse box? Voltage regulator etc.

Repainting the valve cover always looks nice but than of course everything else looks worse. Inspiration to do more I suppose.

Bruce
 
I used a product called Orange Blast on my engine bay. It worked great and smells nice too. It breaks down the grease and grim, but doesn't really just wash the grim away with water. It took a couple of bottles, a couple of old tooth brushes, and lots of rags. It looks really nice now.
 
When I was working at a dealership 10 years ago, I would use "Simple Green" to soak the engine and everything else under the hood. When the cleaner was still wet, I would wash it with the pressure washer. You don't need a huge amount of pressure, but you need more than a hose can get you. There are also inexpensive nozzles that fit a hose and air hose from a compressor to make pressure that work well.

As mentioned above, cover the sensative electric bits and the air intake, but you can clean the wires this way if you protect the connectors. If you were doing something more modern, like a FI car after '85, I would say just cover the dizzy and intake and don't worry about the connectors or alt. at all, but I digress.

Also, as soon as you are done...and I mean right away, start the car and get it warm so that you can make sure to keep everything dry that should be dry. If you let it sit, water will seep in everywhere you tried to keep it out of...I learned that the hard way and spent much "quality time" with a distributor and hair dryer.

For a good shine, I used foaming tire shine. Spray it on, let it soak in for a while, then wipe off the excess. This isn't for concours, but for a driver, the hoses, rubber and everything else will take on a nice satin (not weird glossy) shine and keep it for a good long time. Much better than using Armor All or some such.
 
Since engine cleansing is part of a good auto detail I offer several secrets for cleansing under the bonnet.

Here is what I do. First warm up the engine a bit. Shut down the motor. Then take a hose and spray the top of the bonnet, and the fenders with water. You do this for the simple reason that IF you get any degreaser on your paint while spraying the engine compartment, it will be diluted and not stain your paint. Then you want to make sure that your air cleaners are covered with a plastic bag, or remove them and stuff rags into your carburator so that it will not become waterlogged. You can cover the alternator if you choose. Now is the time to spray down under the bonnet with any degreaser that you choose, again, just make sure that your fenders and top of the bonnet are wet to begin with. This way you can spray under the bonnet, around the engine, the mounts and the trans. Let the degreaser do its work for a few minutes, then with a high preassure nozzle wash down the motor. Give it a liberal cleanseing. If not satisfied, repeat with the degreaser again.

Now is when I take a tire dressing, I prefer to use our American Shine Super Shine as it is a water based silicone.
I use a spray bottle and soak down the entire engine compartment, making sure to spray any and all rubber products in the compartment, letting it soak into the pours of the rubber. Let it sit for a few minutes. While it is soaking in, I take this time to check all of my fittings and electrical connections, pulling off the distributor cap to see if it is waterlogged. Whether it is or not, now is a good time to spray some WD40 in to dry up any water or condensation that may be in there. In checking the electrical connections make sure ALL of your grounds are secure. Remember, if this is a British engine that you are cleansing, make doubbly sure that all grounds are intacked. I had one go loose after a cleansing and it was underneath the vehicle. This may be a Negative ground earth!

Now replace you air cleaner remembering to pull out the rags so that you motor will not choke. Close the bonnet, and fire up the motor. Letting it rund to dry out the compartment. By all rights you should not have any problems. Now is also a good time to wash the rest of the vehicle, cleaning off any grit or grime that shot up while cleaning the motor.

After washing the vehicle, before drying, I always dress the tires, then go to wiping down the car to dry it off. After drying the vehicle, the last thing to do is wipe any excess tire dressing off aand WAA LAA! Your prize possession is imacculate and ready to cruise!

Here are several good reasons to keep you engine compartment clean.
1. Any mechanic that you have work on you vehicle will take notice of this, and figure that since YOU take care of your ride, he will give it that extra little attention that others do not receive.
2. Cars have personallities, and will appreciate this too, and not break down when you least expect it, like in the dead of nite on a deserted highway. They will treat you with the respect that you treat them with
 
Buy a cheap electric toothbrush with a large head, and a tube of toothpaste. It'll take a while but its worth it.
NOTHING works better.
 
Easy...and it works...Simple Green...by the big spray bottle version...and then pressure wash it off...why make it hard on yourself...unless you want to spend all day with your toothbrush on it... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Henri;

I'm over in Orange and I thought if your not doing anything next weekend. Oh forget it, since I got the front cam seals replaced on the Lotus 907 engine, I'm no longer throwing oil onto the bonnet and engine bay, maybe now I can clean it up and repaint the bonnets interior.

I like the pressure washer, but the "SCHMUTZ" goes everywhere and it takes longer to clean up that mess than to do the engine bay.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Easy...and it works...Simple Green...by the big spray bottle version...and then pressure wash it off...why make it hard on yourself...unless you want to spend all day with your toothbrush on it... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree.....plus it makes for a funky taste when you brush your teeth that night if you decide to use your toothbrush. But seriously, I have used this method to clean up the engine bay of our old Taurus and it does work very well.
 
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plus it makes for a funky taste when you brush your teeth that night if you decide to use your toothbrush.

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Steve is using your same toothbrush for your car and your teeth a "British" thing...I'm sure the Brits are frugal...but isn't that carrying it a bit far...buy another one...please... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
I've had good success using 3M Adhesive & Wax Remover. I just spray it on, let it sit for a few moments, and then wipe it off (repeat as necessary). It won't harm most properly cured paints. It does have some fairly noxious fumes (I wouldn't recommend using it inside a garage), but the thing I like about it is I don't have to use any water in the engine bay. What doesn't wipe up with this stuff simply evaporates.
 
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