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emissions removal?
- Thread starter BuddyJ
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Bret
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by BuddyJ:
OK, on a 76 MGB, what emissions stuff can be removed? Oklahoma doesn't have emissions laws and, from what I know, the emissions stuff seriously limits horsepower. It also looks nasty and clutters up the engine bay.<hr></blockquote>
Hi BuddyJ,
I am not going to get into a long banter as to what kind of problems you might have down the road should your State decide to change the rules on emission testing like California did. But be warned that this is a trend not to be ignored.
OK now with that said, let’s pretend I don’t live in a totalitarian state and my car wasn’t subject to emissions testing anymore.
First of all – I’d first remove the Smog Pump and Catalytic converter. Once that’s out of the way start looking at a suitable replacement for the Single ZS Carburetor set-up as soon as I could afford it. This would allow me to get rid of that restrictive combination (intake/exhaust) manifold with it’s EGR valve and go for a better breathing system. There are quite a few choices out there to pick from. But for my money I would probably revert my B back to the duel SU carb setup with a header type exhaust system.
Good Luck!
Bret
OK, on a 76 MGB, what emissions stuff can be removed? Oklahoma doesn't have emissions laws and, from what I know, the emissions stuff seriously limits horsepower. It also looks nasty and clutters up the engine bay.<hr></blockquote>
Hi BuddyJ,
I am not going to get into a long banter as to what kind of problems you might have down the road should your State decide to change the rules on emission testing like California did. But be warned that this is a trend not to be ignored.
OK now with that said, let’s pretend I don’t live in a totalitarian state and my car wasn’t subject to emissions testing anymore.
First of all – I’d first remove the Smog Pump and Catalytic converter. Once that’s out of the way start looking at a suitable replacement for the Single ZS Carburetor set-up as soon as I could afford it. This would allow me to get rid of that restrictive combination (intake/exhaust) manifold with it’s EGR valve and go for a better breathing system. There are quite a few choices out there to pick from. But for my money I would probably revert my B back to the duel SU carb setup with a header type exhaust system.
Good Luck!
Bret
Yea, I understand the whole legal aspect of it, and its something that we'll contend with if/when it happens, but here in Oklahoma they just did away with car inspections. Its like they are deregulating cars instead of tightening restrictions...
The car isn't mine, per say. I just play mechanic. We're probably gonna get the 1 3/4 SUs since they are supposedly easy to set up and maintain. But, we also saw Brit Teks "Outlaw" Weber 38 syncronous downdraft and it looks like it might be cool too. May go cheap too and just get the single SU HIF4. It depends on how much cash we have laying around.
Anyways, how do you remove the air pump? I know you gotta take the pump off, along with its belt. Can we take off the air injectors and all the stuff connected to the airpump by hoses? I gotta know what to leave on there.
Thanks for the help in advance.
The car isn't mine, per say. I just play mechanic. We're probably gonna get the 1 3/4 SUs since they are supposedly easy to set up and maintain. But, we also saw Brit Teks "Outlaw" Weber 38 syncronous downdraft and it looks like it might be cool too. May go cheap too and just get the single SU HIF4. It depends on how much cash we have laying around.
Anyways, how do you remove the air pump? I know you gotta take the pump off, along with its belt. Can we take off the air injectors and all the stuff connected to the airpump by hoses? I gotta know what to leave on there.
Thanks for the help in advance.
G
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I beleive those are 7/16 nf plugs. I know they are not pipe thread
On my '76 Midget, a steel pipe cap was screwed onto the end of the air pump manifold, rather than pulling the manifold and plugging up the holes in the head (hm, that didn't sound quite right!). Anyway, it worked fine till someone whacked the manifold with a wrench and cracked that end off. Crimping it did not stop the whistling sound.
-William
-William