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Eliminate fender beading?

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Trevor Jessie

Trevor Jessie

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I'm considering eliminating the fender beading on my Bugeye and filling/smoothing with lead. I'm thinking that it would reduce the likelihood of rust recurring and make the car look sleeker. I'm looking for pros and cons and other opinions.
 
Trevor,

As what some would call a 'purist' I can't imagine why anyone would want to do this? Even if you remover the beading from the top you still have the seam in the wheel well. If the beading is properly repaired and sealed during painting it should last for a long long time.

The beading is just one of the little details that makes the bugeye a bugeye.

My two cents, given.
 
The beading catches dirt and wax, and is just another set of " corners" to deal with. I understand that it is a characteristic of the car, but if it wasn't there when the car was new... would the car have been more attractive?
 
With that line of thinking why not fill/remove the lines created by the front valance? Or the seam where the healights meet the bonnet?

I think the most important thing that I meant to get across was that if you remove the beading you will still have an issue from the seam in the wheel well.

Is your beading in bad shape now or are you worried about issues in the future?
 
The beading is in fine shape, but on my midget I left it and every time I look at the car I wish that I'd removed it. And yes, I'm looking at other seams as well to determine what could possibly be filled smoothed and/or eliminated.
 
You've heard it before, do what makes you happy! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

I don't think you'll have a problem either way. I personally like to make changes that can be easily reversed by myself or a future owner.
 
I have seen BE's w/o the beading at shows. It never was appealing to me.

Patrick
 
By beading, do you mean the gaps. These allow air to pass through and allow these areas to remain dry and it helps cooling. My midget had them all filled in, the radius and all and there was rust in these places because dirt could not escape and get blown out so it stayed in there and biult up and got wet and started to eat.
 
No Kim, I mean the narrow strips of metal along the top ridge of the rear fender. (this is actually part of a T-shaped bit of steel that is used in joining/sealing panels)
 
When I bought the project it was already beyond "easily reverse" since it was two cars seamed together. I passed on some other bugeyes since I would have felt guilty about hacking on them.

I've seen them without the beading and I honestly can't decide.
 
The Speedwell Sprites and a few of the other "specials" did do away with the beading and I thought were quite attractive!! Other than maintaining "originality" I cannot think why they are desirable!! I think the origins of its being used go back to "ease/cost of manufacture", not design!! They definitly contribute to rust development, and if rust is already present it is a bear to eliminate without disassembly (that I know of)! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

PS: just got back from Sebring...a good time was had by all!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
i dont like the seams on my rear fenders....
gives it a pieced together look instead of
the sleek, smooth sports car look....z
 
I don't like them on the midget because it is not balanced with any beading on the front (like there is on a bugeye).

I'm still sitting on the fence about what to do...
 
Trevor, if you decide to eliminate them, please post pics. I'd love to see how this looks.
 
I did that with lead long ago, it rusted right underneath in Hawaii.
 
I now that I'm not eliminating a rust prone area, I'll treat all the rust that I find before leading it back. I feel confident that removing it will not promote rust.
 
I vote for smooth it out and add the speedwell front clip.....when I find my bugeye project car thats what im going to do /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif that and chrome everything.

speedwell_lh85.jpg
 
That's some looker isn't it?
 
I'm facing this problem too, as I have some paint adhesion problems along the edge of the strip. I plan to take it to a body shop to get the paint fixed, but I suspect I'll be told that it can't be guaranteed as long as the strip is in place. Trying to paint over a moderately flexible piece of molding, fill in the gaps, and not have it crack seems pretty difficult to me. Or, am I worrying too much?

I'd like to keep the strips, if only for originality. I think it looks good either way.
 
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