-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Share this page
OP
Guest
Guest
Guest
Offline
WOW!! Guys, thanks for the great response!! Although, alot of it was over my head.
If I decide to keep the car and eventually get it fixed again, I will include getting a timing light, as they are only $16. This payday, I am going to Harbor Freight to get a vacuum guage, to do a test on each cylinder. Ed thinks that when I dieselled the engine that I might have fried some valve guides again. So, I will put a vacuum gage on it. If he is right, the car will sit until next year sometime, unless somebody gives me a good offer on it as a parts car.
I will not be able to put $700 into the head every time I drive the car.
This all started because I installed a vacuum advance pipe, and admittedly, advanced the spark a little because the car would not run right as soon as I put on the vacuum.
Today, using the fine-tune Advance-Retard on the distributor (I have electronic ignition, no points, by the way), I unscrewed the nut all the way so that I could move the entire assembly for-and-aft about 3/4 of an inch, by hand, AND IT DIDN'T DO SQUAT TO THE IDLE OF THE CAR, except to conk it out if I retarded it all the way. When I told Ed this, and that it ran so badly that I could hardly get it around the block, he suspects that the head is gone again, from the dieseling.
This was not a good day. I ordered some new Tenax fasteners for the top. When they get here, I think that I will install them and call it a season. My ex-wife told me that before I buy that car, I had better throw out every tool in my garage. God, she will haunt me 'til my dying day.
Again, thanks for all the poop. Don, the spring was in place, and my hoses are fine; I replaced the leaky one. That has been the only saving grace from this whole horrible experience, as the PO could not find the "small coolant leak." I found it.
If I decide to keep the car and eventually get it fixed again, I will include getting a timing light, as they are only $16. This payday, I am going to Harbor Freight to get a vacuum guage, to do a test on each cylinder. Ed thinks that when I dieselled the engine that I might have fried some valve guides again. So, I will put a vacuum gage on it. If he is right, the car will sit until next year sometime, unless somebody gives me a good offer on it as a parts car.
I will not be able to put $700 into the head every time I drive the car.
This all started because I installed a vacuum advance pipe, and admittedly, advanced the spark a little because the car would not run right as soon as I put on the vacuum.
Today, using the fine-tune Advance-Retard on the distributor (I have electronic ignition, no points, by the way), I unscrewed the nut all the way so that I could move the entire assembly for-and-aft about 3/4 of an inch, by hand, AND IT DIDN'T DO SQUAT TO THE IDLE OF THE CAR, except to conk it out if I retarded it all the way. When I told Ed this, and that it ran so badly that I could hardly get it around the block, he suspects that the head is gone again, from the dieseling.
This was not a good day. I ordered some new Tenax fasteners for the top. When they get here, I think that I will install them and call it a season. My ex-wife told me that before I buy that car, I had better throw out every tool in my garage. God, she will haunt me 'til my dying day.
Again, thanks for all the poop. Don, the spring was in place, and my hoses are fine; I replaced the leaky one. That has been the only saving grace from this whole horrible experience, as the PO could not find the "small coolant leak." I found it.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
George, I don't know who 'Ed' is, but I think he's full of it. Dieseling isn't particularly kind to rod bearings and pistons; but just a few minutes isn't going to do enough damage to a TR3 motor to worry about. There is a reason we call them TRactor motors, and it's not just because of their family connection to Ferguson tractors! And besides, dieseling has nothing whatsoever to do with valve guides.
You do have something wrong, but I seriously doubt that it is valve guides or that it will cost $700 to fix.
Surely there is someone in RRTC that could take a look at it for you, if you ask nicely. I'd help you myself, if I weren't 1500 miles away.
You do have something wrong, but I seriously doubt that it is valve guides or that it will cost $700 to fix.
Surely there is someone in RRTC that could take a look at it for you, if you ask nicely. I'd help you myself, if I weren't 1500 miles away.
Offline
Again, 
totally.
As for the vernier, IIRC the clicks are 1/5 of a degree each. Didn't remember the index marks. :crazy:
With an electronic iggy the strobe timing light is best. With points the timing can be set at the side of the road. A matchbook cover for gap setting and a 12V test light to time it... Moseso's "snap" method if the test light is at home.
totally. As for the vernier, IIRC the clicks are 1/5 of a degree each. Didn't remember the index marks. :crazy:
With an electronic iggy the strobe timing light is best. With points the timing can be set at the side of the road. A matchbook cover for gap setting and a 12V test light to time it... Moseso's "snap" method if the test light is at home.