-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Wedge Electrical issues [TR8]
- Thread starter JodyFKerr
- Start date
Share this page
WedgeWorks
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Be thankful it was not this! Melted whites and browns! Plus the fuse block too in 4 places!
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
Eeeeewww... That reminds me of the harness on my blue Jensen Healey. It was so bad that it was all one big glob of melted goo. Had to straight out pitch that harness. Back in those days I was a poor sob, and I rewired the car from scratch using the spare wire I had in the garage.
That home job still works beautifully, btw. Probably because it was American wire, and lacked the Lucas smoke additive.
That home job still works beautifully, btw. Probably because it was American wire, and lacked the Lucas smoke additive.
WedgeWorks
Jedi Trainee
Offline
This was caused by some knuckle-head that decided to rewire the AC fans with a relay and a bunch of red & black wires.......when I fixed it I FIXED it!
Looks like you melted the engine wiring harness. Originally they were wrapped with a heat resistant fiberglass tape. Very common failure as it runs very near the cats or exhaust header. They used to be available, but I'm not sure if they still are or not. I have made them several times out of wires scavenged from spare TR7 harnesses.
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
Even with the wiring fix it's still causing me grief. I broke my alligator clips the first time I tested the long battery cable, so I question my initial readings. At this point, if it's not that wire, and the alternator tests out ok, I'm going to be pretty annoyed. Is it possible that it may be related to the sense wire?
I took a look at the interior on the passenger side. It appears that all the carpets and such are glued down. Is that the case? What's the PITA scale of replacing the battery lead?
I'm getting to the point of being down to the wire on this one (no pun intended). I'm supposed to be in Tucson this Sunday (annual Mad Dogs and Englishment summer run), and driving out to the Jensen convention next thursday. I really don't want to have to leave the TR8 at home and drive some stupid rental.
If it weren't for this job, kids, wife, and all those other silly distractions I could get some quality time out in the garage.
Jody
I took a look at the interior on the passenger side. It appears that all the carpets and such are glued down. Is that the case? What's the PITA scale of replacing the battery lead?
I'm getting to the point of being down to the wire on this one (no pun intended). I'm supposed to be in Tucson this Sunday (annual Mad Dogs and Englishment summer run), and driving out to the Jensen convention next thursday. I really don't want to have to leave the TR8 at home and drive some stupid rental.
If it weren't for this job, kids, wife, and all those other silly distractions I could get some quality time out in the garage.
Jody
Replacing the main wire isn't that big of a deal. It passes over the rear wheel arch into the passenger compartment. Then it runs along the passenger side rocker under the carpet. There is a cover panel where the passenger feet could contact it. Then it travels upward behind the foot well cover. Behind that cover there is a splice connection that taps power for cockpit electrical. It has a red or black snap cover and is about three inches long. The wire passes thru the firewall and onto the starter. In a pinch just leave the old one and run the new one inside the car along the rocker. Remove and reinstall the splice/tap and run to the starter. Cover it up later after your sure thats the fix.
GBRandy
Jedi Knight
Offline
*sigh* I guess if I were you I would pull that alternator and have it bench tested just to get a baseline back.
I would then run a new cable from the battery to the starter / alternator and disconnect the old one and see if that fixes things. If it does, THEN I would tie into the carpeting and remove / replace said wires. If not well..... uhm....
Were you able to get at the ground wire in the engine bay? The one on the passenger side that runs from the block to the frame? It is not the easiest one to attack, but both ends have been problems for many of us owners and once cleaned solved all kinds of bizarre electrical issues.
Some guys went so far as to add a second ground strap from the engine to the frame.
The sense wire is just a short run fro the junction box in the passenger foot well to the alternator and easily replaced or by passed for testing.
It starts here...the on coming out the bottom on the left:
I would then run a new cable from the battery to the starter / alternator and disconnect the old one and see if that fixes things. If it does, THEN I would tie into the carpeting and remove / replace said wires. If not well..... uhm....
Were you able to get at the ground wire in the engine bay? The one on the passenger side that runs from the block to the frame? It is not the easiest one to attack, but both ends have been problems for many of us owners and once cleaned solved all kinds of bizarre electrical issues.
Some guys went so far as to add a second ground strap from the engine to the frame.
The sense wire is just a short run fro the junction box in the passenger foot well to the alternator and easily replaced or by passed for testing.
It starts here...the on coming out the bottom on the left:
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
Ok, here's where I'm at.
Charged and tested the battery. Passed tests.
Bench tested the alternator. Ran the test 3 times, Passed all three times.
Have replaced the wire from the alternator to the starter. Voltage drop = 0.0.
Retested voltage drop on wire from battery to starter. Voltage drop = 0.60
I also tested for vampiric drains off the battery, and it read 0.0
Based on the information at hand, my next steps are to replace the battery to starter cable, negative battery cable, and battery terminals. I'll also double check the engine grounds.
If that doesn't work then I'll be at a total loss.
Charged and tested the battery. Passed tests.
Bench tested the alternator. Ran the test 3 times, Passed all three times.
Have replaced the wire from the alternator to the starter. Voltage drop = 0.0.
Retested voltage drop on wire from battery to starter. Voltage drop = 0.60
I also tested for vampiric drains off the battery, and it read 0.0
Based on the information at hand, my next steps are to replace the battery to starter cable, negative battery cable, and battery terminals. I'll also double check the engine grounds.
If that doesn't work then I'll be at a total loss.
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
Ok, Either I've got some bad mojo, or the car does.
Pu it all back together, started it up, proceeded to do some more voltage checks. Smoke begins pouring up from the front of the engine compartment. Alternator pulley has siezed and is now melting through the belt (which summarily snapped).
And, yes, I did set the tension correctly on the belt.
I think I shall go have a cold beverage and give up for the evening.
Pu it all back together, started it up, proceeded to do some more voltage checks. Smoke begins pouring up from the front of the engine compartment. Alternator pulley has siezed and is now melting through the belt (which summarily snapped).
And, yes, I did set the tension correctly on the belt.
I think I shall go have a cold beverage and give up for the evening.
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
Yep.
Well, this morning I'm armed and ready for battle. I've got a fresh pot of coffee on, the A/C running in the garage, 16' of 2 gauge, 2' of 4 gauge, gold plated battery terminals, a new alternator, and a good night's sleep.
Nothing outstubborns a Scotsman. It will work.
Jody
Well, this morning I'm armed and ready for battle. I've got a fresh pot of coffee on, the A/C running in the garage, 16' of 2 gauge, 2' of 4 gauge, gold plated battery terminals, a new alternator, and a good night's sleep.
Nothing outstubborns a Scotsman. It will work.
Jody
D
Deleted member 8987
Guest
Guest
Offline
Howinthehell did the shop test that alternator three freaking times and it seized on you when you started it?
Geez Maneeze.
Also, look for a mis-mount, where the cooling fins are hitting a bracket.
Can you spin the alternator by hand with the belt off?
Geez Maneeze.
Also, look for a mis-mount, where the cooling fins are hitting a bracket.
Can you spin the alternator by hand with the belt off?
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
Don,
I'll find the part in Randy's picture when I eventually tear into the interior. I grabbed the 2 gauge cause it was the biggest Homer Despot had on hand.
And as to the old alternator, It wouldn't spin until I dropped it. Then it freed. I took it back to Autozone. This morning it failed testing (d'uh). As my friend described on failing bearings in the past, it sounded like a pack of angry mice!
New alternator's in and working, as is belt. Now I've got it in the garage where I can be much cooler to finish up the rest of it.
Jody
I'll find the part in Randy's picture when I eventually tear into the interior. I grabbed the 2 gauge cause it was the biggest Homer Despot had on hand.
And as to the old alternator, It wouldn't spin until I dropped it. Then it freed. I took it back to Autozone. This morning it failed testing (d'uh). As my friend described on failing bearings in the past, it sounded like a pack of angry mice!
New alternator's in and working, as is belt. Now I've got it in the garage where I can be much cooler to finish up the rest of it.
Jody
OP
JodyFKerr
Jedi Knight
Offline
So, I'm presently looking at the connector identified in Randy's photo. Mine's specifically still covered with the brown Lucas cover.
As I remember, these wrap around the battery cable and draw power from it. Is this correct? When it comes to old plasticy wiring harness bits I'm always ultra paranoid about breaking them.
Jody
As I remember, these wrap around the battery cable and draw power from it. Is this correct? When it comes to old plasticy wiring harness bits I'm always ultra paranoid about breaking them.
Jody
