• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Electric vs Compressed Air

Herald63nut

Senior Member
Offline
Considering the purchase of a grinder to do some paint and rust removal. Question: What are the upsides and downsides of going electric versus air tools? Do not own a compressor at this time, so initial cost is a consideration, but realize that over time I will likely obtain sandblasting, sanding, etc.equipment. Oh yeah, if air is the way to go, what should I look for in a compressor in terms of size, etc.? Thanks.
 
Off the top of my head:

Air tools...

Pros:
- last forever
- lighter weight
- less expensive to purchase
- safe in wet conditions

Cons:
- will run out of juice unless your compressor is large
- May blow light oil or moisture from exhaust

Electric tools...

Pros:
- unlimited power supply

Cons:
- motors wear out
- heavier weight
- Cords pose danger when wet
- cost more to purchase

I'm sure others will add more to the list.
 
I like air - even though my tank is too small. lots of options in terms of tools, all of them not too expensive. I particularly like the air wrench - I'm not sure I could have taken the car apart without - Also, if you own a compressor your manly friends will know you are a serious mechanic and even the chicks dig and understand the whirr sound of the air wrench and know this is a guy to be reckoned with - I vote compressor /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Air grinders use large amounts of air.
Everyday mechanical tools like impact guns, air rachets, air chisels and the like only get used for short bursts, and the average 120v $200-$300 compressor will work beautifully.
Once you get into body tools, like grinders, DA sanders, sand blast cabinets, and other high volume tools that get used for extended periods you really should get a 220v compressor rated for such things.(usually 15 CFM @90psi or higher) Now the price has jumped to $600 for the lower end jobs. ( plus the tools, the hoses, the inline driers, etc...
After the initial investment, the air tools definatly are nice, but I have used electric DA sanders, and electric grinders, and they're fine. You can buy cheaper ones that will do your resto, and still be good afterwords for farrrrr less than the compressor setup.
So the question is how much are you really gonna use these tools after the job at hand? is it really worth the major investment for the huge compressor, or would it be better to get a smaller one for basic tools, and buy the electric equivilants for the body tools?
Of course there's always tool rentals.....
 
Steve_S said:
I'm dure others will add more to the list.
What about the scarcity of electric sandblasters ?
 
For a DA sander I recommend air, for a side grinder I recommend electric (lose the guard and handle to get into nooks and crannies), for a buffer I recommend electric, you can get stripping disc and pad for a buffer to strip paint without damaging the sheetmetal at auto paint supply stores.
 
Hello Herald63nut,

the one big disadvantage of air powered tools is that they are inefficient, largely as you convert electrical power to air production then that air is used to drive the tool so there are the losses in the tool. (You also never use all of the compressed air that is produced either.

Alec
 
Having used an air powered die grinder with a less-than-impressive air compressor, all I can say is if you want to be able to use a tool like that continuously, get a compressor that has more than enough air delivery, or you'll be forced to use it for a short time, then have to wait for the tank to refill. For tools like impact wrenches that get used in short bursts, that's not an issue, but for spray painters and grinders that might run for long periods it's a big issue.

I can also say that the oil-free compressors are a compromise as far as the noise level. They are cheap, but all of your neighbors will know when it's running. Depending on what you plan to run, an oil-free compressor might not be able to run what you want, but even if it can you might spend some more and get an oil-lubed one that's quieter and lasts longer.
 
As a mather of fact, I picked up an air nibbler and air hammer at Harbor Freight Tools yesterday. My air compressor just meets the usage requirements, but it works just fine, especially if you don't run the tool constant.
 
Hey Herald63Nut -

I'm in the same boat as you. I'm looking at compressors, and am interested, but there are some tools I will continue to use electric. I have a 4" angle grinder that I love, and have used air grinders as well. Not enough difference for me to switch. Now an air ratchet on the other hand....

As far as oil-less, I have looked at and worked with both types. The oil-less ones are indeed noisier, and from all the information I've garnered, are not as reliable in the long run. I went to one of the Big Box Stores just to look and compare. Their oil-less, 26 gallon compressor, which puts out 4.0 CFM @ 90 PSI is $299. For less than $90 more, you can get their twin-v oil-lubed 30 gallon compressor that puts out about 5.2 CFM @ 90 PSI. The oil-free one does come with a starter tool pack, but I'm definitely leaning towards the oil-lubed unit. It'll be quieter, it'll last longer, and in the long run, I'll be a happier pseudo-mechanic!

Just my 2¢ worth.
 
Bieng in the welding buissness for a number of years, I have used both air and electric. They both have thier places and issues. Air tools if not well maintained, Gear heads greased and the vanes {Motor} Oiled fequently will wear out, Go ahead and ask me how I know. Electrics will too, On these the gearheads need greased often and the brushes will eventualy give it up. But with proper care and maintenance each can deliver good service. With Air tools the compressor delivery rate is an issue. You`ll need one that will deliver enough air to supply whatever you plan to use tool wise. With electric, cords are an issue {get in the way} and can be a safety issue also. If you plan to do serious wrenching and or body work, you will eventually end up with a mixed arsenal.
The only advice I have is, the cheaper end tools arn`t always the most economic in the long run.
Take this for what it`s worth to you.
Kerry
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

I have both,and each has it's place. The electric cords are a safety issue. I have sockets in the ceiling and the cords are mounted on reels out of the way.I have got into the habit of coiling them up as soon as I finish using them.
The same applies to the air tools. Being safe is paramount.


Stuart. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Below is a copy of a message I posted on the Triumph section. This may help those that are considering air vs. electric, and thus what to do about a compressor. Enjoy, and HTH.

I have a little bit of experience with air tools and how to keep them happy. I was a Snap-On dealer for 20 years. Needless to say, I have sold more than a few compressors and LOTS of air tools of all sorts and brands.

1) Generally, more expensive air tools in a particular style (air ratchets, sanders, etc.) use LESS air and/or produce more power.
2) Pay extra for a better compressor and you will be rewarded with longer life and better performance.
3) When you buy an air compressor HORSEPOWER IS MEANINGLESS. Air flow volume is what counts. However, there are different ways of rating flow rate. But to keep it simple, CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI is what to look for, no matter what the other specs are. DO NOT BUY OILLESS COMPRESSORS - junk ... period. If you have the room, get at least a 60 gallon tank. For electricity, 220 volts single phase is better, and not all that hard to wire up. You'll notice small electric motors (cheap) and bigger motors (not so cheap). And you will see aluminum compressors (cheap) and cast iron (not so cheap).
4) DO NOT TRY TO HORSE AROUND A SERIOUS COMPRESSOR. IF THEY START TO FALL ..... YOU HAVE LESS THAN NO CHANCE OF CONTRILLING THE DECENT. You WILL get hurt. Get friends to help.
5) If you have a Tractor Supply Store nearby, you will be amazed what $1000 will buy! I was. Harbour Freight? Don't even think about it. No matter where you shop, plan on being north of $1000 or you will ultimately be unhappy and spend MORE money to replace it.
6) So, how does one buy a compressor? If it's a one person situation (you and your rusty whatever) then project what sort of air tools you'll be getting. Find the HIGHEST air consumption rate of the hungriest air tool (body tools ARE the greediest) and buy a compressor the will produce at LEAST 1.5 times that amount. After all, not only does the compressor need to supply the tool, but it has to refill the tank at the same time!! Example; a board sander may consume 7 CFM or more, so you'll need a compressor that produces AT LEAST 11 CFM @ 90 PSI. Bigger compressors run LESS and don't get the incoming air as hot, thus less water. Get a good filter/drier/regulator.

Hope this helps some.
 
I have a question about my compressor- it is a 30 year old Wards unit that I bought new. I do drain it after every use but know that some water will stay in the tank and thus cause rust which worries me some.
I know that commercial places need to have their compressor tanks "hydroed" (filled with water and then pressurized to about 150% or their rated pressure limit) occasionally to prevent explosions.
Has anyone ever had a "home" unit hydroed? Where, How and how much?
Bill
 
Back
Top