• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

Early Xmas Present

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
I picked up my new rack and pinion conversion kit for the 3A this morning after waiting for it to arrive for the past three weeks. I bought the "cheapo" version of the conversion from Moss (through LBCC).

Here are a couple of pics of the kit....

img_0492.jpg


img_0493.jpg


img_0495.jpg


img_0497.jpg


Unfortunately, it is missing one critical part...one of the track rod ends didn't make the trip.

I hope to get this installed in the next week or so and get the chassis back to rolling.

Cheers,
M.Pied Lourd
 
I hope that Santa is as kind to me,
Let us know how the kit works out.
 
I'm green with Christmas Envy! Are you contemplating on keeping the original wheel setup or going with something like a Moto-Lita? If you want to keep the original one I can post some pics of the setup Bastuck makes to retain the trafficator. I bought one a while back although I still waffling on a decision for a R&P conversion. That setup does look slick though!
 
I've heard the setup to retain the original trafficator negates the self-canceling feature. I got the earlier setup from the guy in Roanoke, VA, and waffled on what I was going to do with the horn and trafficator. I figured if I couldn't get it to self cancel, then I might as well go with the MGA directional, which is a timed cancel, and a nice wooden steering wheel. I'm glad I did.

You can see the MGA directional switch on the lower left of the dash.

Edit: BTW, I did a ton of modifications to my TR3 during the restoration, and <span style="font-weight: bold">by far</span>, the best one was the rack & pinion steering.
 

Attachments

  • 19401.jpg
    19401.jpg
    38.6 KB · Views: 434
Hi Randy,

The car I am restoring is a former vintage racer and had a really beefy moto lita allready installed. I really like the look and feel of it and most importantly, I fit under it so I will be putting this back on the car.

P1020569-2.jpg



P1020463.jpg


tr3interior-1.jpg


Although I liked the old color combination white/red, my parts car came with a nice black leather interior that I will be swapping into the car. Not sure of the exterior color as of yet....I am considering either white with a black stripe/number, black with a white stripe/number, or black with a silver/grey stripe/number.....

I will most probably go with the MG set up for the turn signals and will place the switch where I am removing the wiper windscreen pump that is currently installed in the dash beside my overdrive switch. Will ask for some help martx when I get there....

I am trying to get my head around how to get the horn button to function with the Moto Lita/stock control head set up/rack and pinion.....

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
M_Pied_Lourd said:
...I am trying to get my head around how to get the horn button to function with the Moto Lita/stock control head set up/rack and pinion....

From Bob Schaller's 'More BS' came this suggestion:

R%26P-slip-ring.JPG


Love the tach orientation on your dash -- hardly ever see that anymore.
 
I just finished a Rack conversion on my 59 and it really is NICE. I can almost parallel park now! I would really like to use the original control head. I got mine from Moss and they assured me it was possible but their tech dept has been unable to help. Randy.......you have a solution thru Bastuck? Would love more info. Will be glad to post pix of the conversion as soon as I can figure out how to load them!
Gordon
 
Kit looks nice and you'll enjoy the difference in steering.
Do you have to reverse the drop arms on the back of the wheel hubs to retain a better turning radii? Had to do that on the G kit.
I don't get the aversion to the trafficators being non self cancelling, I've retained my original hub and all of the functions...I do self cancel, I mean it's right in freakin front of you lol.
 
Gordon,
We must have been posting at the same time....the German Bastuck kit comes with a slid on unit with brass inner rings and plungers that allow everything to rotate but the wires remain stationary

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01284.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01286.jpg

The inner sleeve connects to the wires running from the old unit on the body harness and the outer sleeve connects to the control head wires.
The control head outer sleeve rotates on the inner sleeve and is connected by metal spring loaded plungers. A little dialectic grease on the rings and they've worked great since installed.
 
Hi prb,

In answer to your question, yes, you do have to reverse the steering control arms.

Cheers,
M.Pied Lourd
 
Startech,

Not sure if the question is for me or one of the others.....

What "outer" piece are you referring to?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Randy,
That is the inst but I just reamed the channels and forced the wires up and soldered in place thru the holes. I didn't take the unit apart. Much easier and works.
Seems a similar unit could be fashioned by the creative handy guys on this site.
 
Hi David
Just saw this post, and having installed this very unit, I have to agree with Art. The best modification yet.
I kept the control head, and steering wheel, just ran the wrapped wires out of the upper column, tied a rubber strap to keep the slack out.
One problem I found was they wanted you to notch out the shock tower so the rack to column u joint will turn clear. I moved mine over 1/2" to clear. This makes the tierod ends different lengths, which is incorect but it seems to work ok going straight, and I don't race or anything.
I have a question that maybe someone can clarify. The upper column is secured just behind the dash, but the column seems too flimsy! It seems like you should have some sort of bracket to secure the upper column where it goes through the bulkhead.
What a great Christmas present,
Emmett
 
Back
Top